Honda CRX Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,705 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm starting to delve into the engine side of things more and more lately. I've change timing belts, waterpumps, main seals, clutches, flywheels...so I decided it's about time I actually did a valve adjustment by myself. My gf's SE had some chattering valves, so I went for it last night.

The engine in question is a D16A6 with stock internals. The factory service manual states that the intake valves should have a lash measurement between 0.007" and 0.009", and the exhaust valves should have a lash measurement of between 0.009" and 0.011".

I set each of the cylinders to top dead center (TDC) in the correct order. Cylinder 1, then 3, then 4, and finally 2. I found that the exhaust valves were very loose, and that the intake valves seemed really tight. I tightened the exhaust valves so that the 0.010" feeler gauge had a slight drag. I loosened the intake valves so that the 0.008" feeler gauge had a slight drag. (I had to bend this feeler gauge at a right angle so I could get it in there...the intake valves aren't too accessible) After all was done, I fired up the car, and it sounded much louder than before. After taking my screwdriver, and putting my ear against the handle and the end against the valve cover at various locations, I was able to establish that the noise was from the intake side.

As it turns out, my feeler gauge was not very accurate. I was setting the intake valves for the 0.008" gauge with slight drag but the valves were still obviously way too loose, so I tightened all the intake valves by a 1/8 turn of the adjustment screw, so that the feeler gauge had quite a bit of drag when pulling it out, and it seemed to solve the problem.

A word of advice to anyone that is using a new set of feeler gauges for valve adjustments: get them measured with a laser caliper or other accurate measuring tool first. Some cheaper feeler gauges aren't very accurate.

Another word of advice, don't over tighten the adjustment nuts. Just tighten them firmly. I have a valve adjustment tool from snap-on that makes it easier to hold the adjustment screw still while tightening the nut correctly. It was money well spent, believe me!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
257 Posts
Wow...after reading that...I kinda feel....sexually excited. :twisted:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
731 Posts
Betcha it was the bit about holding the "screw" and tightening the "nut" that did it huh Jonny?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,705 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Naw...I think it was the "money well spent" part that raised his...err...eyebrow. :lol:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
257 Posts
Edited

I'm starting to delve into the engine side of things more and more lately. it's about time I actually did a valve adjustment by myself. so I went for it last night.

The engine in question is a D16A6 with stock internals.

I set each of the cylinders to top dead center (TDC) I found that the exhaust valves were very loose, and that the intake valves seemed really tight. I tightened the exhaust valves feeler gauge had a slight drag. I loosened the intake valves so that the feeler gauge had a slight drag. (I had to bend this feeler gauge at a right angle so I could get it in there) After all was done, and it sounded much louder than before. After taking my screwdriver, and putting my ear against the handle and the end against the valve cover at various locations, I was able to establish that the noise was from the intake side.

As it turns out, my feeler gauge was not very accurate. The valves were still obviously way too loose, so I tightened all the intake valves by a 1/8 turn of the adjustment screw, so that the feeler gauge had quite a bit of drag when pulling it out.

Word of advice, don't over tighten the adjustment nuts. Just tighten them firmly. I have a valve adjustment tool from snap-on that makes it easier to hold the adjustment screw still while tightening the nut correctly. It was money well spent, believe me!

Dude this is pure sex right here

bwhaha
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
912 Posts
I checked my manual, for the A6, you tighten the lock nuts to 10 ft. lbs. I did an adjustment a few weeks ago on my gf's Civic. Similar to stickershop, except most of her valvs were very loose. Its a good skill to have, concidering what they charge for a valve job in a shop. 50-100$ i believe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
634 Posts
Those valve adjustment tools can be really handy. SRI Tools (nice name, huh?) makes them as well, for around $40-50 if memory serves.

And if you're buying feeler gauges with valve adjustment in mind, get a GOOD set, and get the bent ones. Makes things a lot easier.

Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
428 Posts
[boner]Feeler Gauge[/boner]

The thing to really be careful of is using STD feelers intead of Metric, and vice versa. Mine were really loud after an IMPORT mechanic fer cryin out loud used a STD feelers based on metric mesurements. Dork.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,746 Posts
Paul, don't bring STDs into this thread!

But seriously, all the feelers I have, and the ones we have at the shop, have both STD and mm printed on them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
634 Posts
xxpaulcpxx said:
[boner]Feeler Gauge[/boner]
Well, for THAT kind of Feeler Gauge, a bent one definitely will NOT make things easier!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,512 Posts
Wow this thread fell off the cliff of decency. :lol:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
257 Posts
Its a good thing we are all adults here.. :shock:
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top