Joined
·
1,707 Posts
I'm starting to delve into the engine side of things more and more lately. I've change timing belts, waterpumps, main seals, clutches, flywheels...so I decided it's about time I actually did a valve adjustment by myself. My gf's SE had some chattering valves, so I went for it last night.
The engine in question is a D16A6 with stock internals. The factory service manual states that the intake valves should have a lash measurement between 0.007" and 0.009", and the exhaust valves should have a lash measurement of between 0.009" and 0.011".
I set each of the cylinders to top dead center (TDC) in the correct order. Cylinder 1, then 3, then 4, and finally 2. I found that the exhaust valves were very loose, and that the intake valves seemed really tight. I tightened the exhaust valves so that the 0.010" feeler gauge had a slight drag. I loosened the intake valves so that the 0.008" feeler gauge had a slight drag. (I had to bend this feeler gauge at a right angle so I could get it in there...the intake valves aren't too accessible) After all was done, I fired up the car, and it sounded much louder than before. After taking my screwdriver, and putting my ear against the handle and the end against the valve cover at various locations, I was able to establish that the noise was from the intake side.
As it turns out, my feeler gauge was not very accurate. I was setting the intake valves for the 0.008" gauge with slight drag but the valves were still obviously way too loose, so I tightened all the intake valves by a 1/8 turn of the adjustment screw, so that the feeler gauge had quite a bit of drag when pulling it out, and it seemed to solve the problem.
A word of advice to anyone that is using a new set of feeler gauges for valve adjustments: get them measured with a laser caliper or other accurate measuring tool first. Some cheaper feeler gauges aren't very accurate.
Another word of advice, don't over tighten the adjustment nuts. Just tighten them firmly. I have a valve adjustment tool from snap-on that makes it easier to hold the adjustment screw still while tightening the nut correctly. It was money well spent, believe me!
The engine in question is a D16A6 with stock internals. The factory service manual states that the intake valves should have a lash measurement between 0.007" and 0.009", and the exhaust valves should have a lash measurement of between 0.009" and 0.011".
I set each of the cylinders to top dead center (TDC) in the correct order. Cylinder 1, then 3, then 4, and finally 2. I found that the exhaust valves were very loose, and that the intake valves seemed really tight. I tightened the exhaust valves so that the 0.010" feeler gauge had a slight drag. I loosened the intake valves so that the 0.008" feeler gauge had a slight drag. (I had to bend this feeler gauge at a right angle so I could get it in there...the intake valves aren't too accessible) After all was done, I fired up the car, and it sounded much louder than before. After taking my screwdriver, and putting my ear against the handle and the end against the valve cover at various locations, I was able to establish that the noise was from the intake side.
As it turns out, my feeler gauge was not very accurate. I was setting the intake valves for the 0.008" gauge with slight drag but the valves were still obviously way too loose, so I tightened all the intake valves by a 1/8 turn of the adjustment screw, so that the feeler gauge had quite a bit of drag when pulling it out, and it seemed to solve the problem.
A word of advice to anyone that is using a new set of feeler gauges for valve adjustments: get them measured with a laser caliper or other accurate measuring tool first. Some cheaper feeler gauges aren't very accurate.
Another word of advice, don't over tighten the adjustment nuts. Just tighten them firmly. I have a valve adjustment tool from snap-on that makes it easier to hold the adjustment screw still while tightening the nut correctly. It was money well spent, believe me!
