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AZCRXSI said:
Pics when done for sure!
No pics for you! :dizzy:
Was a total disaster. First off, I didn't have the correct socket for the lock on the lug nuts, and my little gas tank decided that its spigot was going to blow itself up (I was running on fumes, and don't want to have to stop at a gas station on the way to the tuner tomorrow morning). So off to Advance and HD to get everything. Get back, and the OEM jack barely has enough range to get the first wheel up to get it off; I forgot that the car is now lower due to the Fortune c/o's. And the jack's looking a bit wonky now too. So figured I'd cut it all off at the head, put back the RNR, tightened everything down, and did everything else to make the car roadworthy for tomorrow. I'm getting more work done next week, so I'll just drop off the rims and have them swap them out while the car's in the air.
So a not fun night, with little to show for it. Story of my life! :rofl:

Will update as things actually get done.
 

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tommy said:
AZCRXSI said:
Pics when done for sure!
No pics for you! :dizzy:
Was a total disaster. First off, I didn't have the correct socket for the lock on the lug nuts, and my little gas tank decided that its spigot was going to blow itself up (I was running on fumes, and don't want to have to stop at a gas station on the way to the tuner tomorrow morning). So off to Advance and HD to get everything. Get back, and the OEM jack barely has enough range to get the first wheel up to get it off; I forgot that the car is now lower due to the Fortune c/o's. And the jack's looking a bit wonky now too. So figured I'd cut it all off at the head, put back the RNR, tightened everything down, and did everything else to make the car roadworthy for tomorrow. I'm getting more work done next week, so I'll just drop off the rims and have them swap them out while the car's in the air.
So a not fun night, with little to show for it. Story of my life! :rofl:

Will update as things actually get done.
Argh :yell: Not good. Sorry to hear this... I've had a few nights like that...

Sounds good. Then pics when it is all done and ready to go! lol
 

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Got the car to the place for the tuning. 10.3 miles, 25 minutes, and about 40 or so starts. That should be the last time that I have to do that. On a positive note, the Hybrid short shifter is tits.
 

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LOL. I wish the problem were with my driving and not the car.

Chris did the tuning, but found out that the timing is off - said that intake cam is one tooth retarded and needs to be advanced, as well as the adjustable cam gear needing to be set back to zero. Then bitched about my aluminum crank pulley and told me to replace it with a stock unit. I'm taking his advice on that, and luckily found a stock pulley on ebay, which is now on the way.

So unsure about Niagara, either going with the crx (stuff has to fall into place neatly) or going up with my EP3 again (would hate going up in that again, as really wanted the crx up and running). Thought I had started to piece this back together with enough time, but guess not, possibly.
 

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tommy said:
Then bitched about my aluminum crank pulley and told me to replace it with a stock unit.
What was his problem with it? I want to remove my stock one and get the extra ribs machined off, since the car doesn't have A/C or P/S.
 

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Replaced the pads and rotors all the way around. Front got StopTech cross-drilled rotors with Hawk HP Plus pads and the rear got just generic Centric rotors and pads. Brake fluid will be exhanged for DOT4 this weekend.
 

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4drSpankR said:
Replaced the pads and rotors all the way around. Front got StopTech cross-drilled rotors with Hawk HP Plus pads and the rear got just generic Centric rotors and pads. Brake fluid will be exhanged for DOT4 this weekend.
Dont get cross drilled... they crack !
 

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Robb said:
4drSpankR said:
Replaced the pads and rotors all the way around. Front got StopTech cross-drilled rotors with Hawk HP Plus pads and the rear got just generic Centric rotors and pads. Brake fluid will be exhanged for DOT4 this weekend.
Dont get cross drilled... they crack !
I've heard of that and have only seen it once. Most likely it was either improper installation (yes, you can install them wrong), the wrong application, a cheap version of a quality product or worn out past their usefulness making them too thin. My car sees maybe 200 miles a year and possibly once track day event a year or every other. So I kinda want to see if it's an internet myth or something else. If they crack I'll get something else.

Actually, I was going to go with slotted but I couldn't find decent ones in my price range that didn't include shipping. :)b
 

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4drSpankR said:
Robb said:
4drSpankR said:
Replaced the pads and rotors all the way around. Front got StopTech cross-drilled rotors with Hawk HP Plus pads and the rear got just generic Centric rotors and pads. Brake fluid will be exhanged for DOT4 this weekend.
Dont get cross drilled... they crack !
I've heard of that and have only seen it once. Most likely it was either improper installation (yes, you can install them wrong), the wrong application, a cheap version of a quality product or worn out past their usefulness making them too thin. My car sees maybe 200 miles a year and possibly once track day event a year or every other. So I kinda want to see if it's an internet myth or something else. If they crack I'll get something else.

Actually, I was going to go with slotted but I couldn't find decent ones in my price range that didn't include shipping. :)b
Back in the 90s, I had cross drilled up front on my '90 HB Si. My CD rotors did start to crack but it came down to two different items: a) at the time the quality probably was not the best and b) I left them on way too long. Probably 2-3 pad cycles. So looking back on that instance, I blame myself for that issue. Nothing bad happened, I just noticed the slight/hairline surface crack on one of the rotors.

I use slotted rotors now. If I went back to CD rotors, I would probably swap them out every 2 pad changes.
 

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Robb said:
Dont get cross drilled... they crack !
What is this, 1995? :rolleyes1:

Wilwood 11" kit in the mail finally. Should have it on Thursday. Pretty, yes. Actually helpful, doubtful. But I'll feel better emotionally on the track. :greenbanana:
 

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tommy said:
What is this, 1995? :rolleyes1:
Grey cast iron hasn't changed since then. QC seems better, but they will crack if you run them long enough. Hopefully that's long enough that they'll get replaced before that happens. If you run these, it's a very good idea to give them a quick once-over every oil change. Nothing major, just take a good look at them to see if there are visible cracks. If you have any that go from one hole to another, or from one hole to any edge of the rotor, the rotor is done and should be replaced before you drive that car again.

--DD
 

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Dave_Darling said:
If you run these, it's a very good idea to give them a quick once-over every oil change. Nothing major, just take a good look at them to see if there are visible cracks.
--DD
My thoughts exactly, car gets driven 200-300 miles a year mostly to work (for check-ups or parts replacement) and C&C events. It is maintained very thoroughly.
 

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I use them on my DD EP3; no evidence yet. Of course, I'll keep checking, but they're generally used more than they used to, and I hear less about cracking/spiderwebbing than I used to. There's got to be some correlation, I'd think.
 

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Hey all I'm back!! (I mentioned having problems with my bearings) I don't know why the bearings didn't want to move in the beginning but they loosened up and were fine after that. I did however run into more problems with the new wheel hubs. I purchased the two from different vendors (1 local and the other from amazon), and the both were the wrong sizes. The new rotors I had didn't fit the wheel hubs. I ended up having to grind them down to have them fit. Just wanted to give a heads up to anyone thinking about buying some for their Rex.
 

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Picked this crank pulley off ebay to replace the non-oem one. Is there any way of verifying that it is the OEM one before test fitting it on the car?



And got my Willwood front brake kit, with 11" rotors, red calipers. Here are the rotor hats; sent them out to Static Coatings on LI to get redone to mimic the Volk centercaps in gold (piece in the middle of the hat is one of the wheel center caps). So if N25 were over Labor Day, i'd have a decent shot of the car being ready. :nod:
 

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Still waiting on the rotor hats to get powdercoated, but last night, I covered the gray letting with gold decals I got from ebay (Israeli company that took a while to send 'em). Had no interest in doing a lot of work in terms of removing the old lettering , so just applied on top. As you can see, it doesn't match exactly, which actually gives a kind of shadow effect, which I don't mind. Then three coats of clear glossy engine enamel and at least they're ready for install.



Oh, and cauliflower crust pizza is surprisingly not awful. Who knew?
 

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Final version of everything - received the rotor hats back from Static Coatings on LI today.



Going on vacation tomorrow, so will get them installed, the timing fixed, and the car all wrapped up when I come back from the OBX in a week. Should be ready just in time for N26! :tongueblue:
 
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