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4-wheel disc.

Do you want specs from the service manual or something?

If you ask a better question than "what is on the car" we could help you more. You know, the ol' help me help you type thing. :)
 

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jfrolang said:
I think the most cost-effective brake upgrade is to get some new rotors (I went with Powerslot slotted rotors) and some decent aftermarket pads like Hawk HPS.
I agree upgrade pads, but don't waste money on anything slotted or drilled they do not help. I had both and they did no better than a good set of blanks.
 

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CRX Toad said:
jfrolang said:
I think the most cost-effective brake upgrade is to get some new rotors (I went with Powerslot slotted rotors) and some decent aftermarket pads like Hawk HPS.
I agree upgrade pads, but don't waste money on anything slotted or drilled they do not help. I had both and they did no better than a good set of blanks.
Agreed. I have drilled on Hawk pads, they stop amazing. I would of gotten blanks (cheapest) only I got each rotor for 30$ because the original buyer flaked and I got them on a steal. The pads costed me more then the rotors.
 

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ludesrv said:
CRX Toad said:
I agree upgrade pads, but don't waste money on anything slotted or drilled they do not help. I had both and they did no better than a good set of blanks.
Agreed. I have drilled on Hawk pads, they stop amazing. I would of gotten blanks (cheapest) only I got each rotor for 30$ because the original buyer flaked and I got them on a steal. The pads costed me more then the rotors.
Yup ,agree here too.
Get a set of decent blanks and spend the money and nice pads.
 

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slottewd and cross driled rotor help a lot.

my dx would try to stop from a 220kmh ripper down to 0
at about 80 I had the pedel mashed and didnt realy have brakes anymore.

switched to slotted/drilled roters and could come down to 0 from 220 no problem at all.

switched to ceramic pads and it got even better. look into it. the perfomance rotors work by eliminating a gas buildup from the braking materil wich acts almost like hydro plaining on your tires in the ran.

they make a big diff
 

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im not going to argue about slotted/drilled rotors over stock. its a pointless argument. youre either going to believe one thing or the other and nobody ever ends up convincing the other camp.

as for 90-91 CRX Si's, they have 2040 prop valves.

DA's have 4040.

dont ask what the difference is. its not just a ratio. nobody but some honda brake engineer is going to answer what it is. and ive yet to hear from one. your safest bet is to copy the whole system of the donor car if youre changing parts. not just piece by piece. or emulate the system most like your brake system.

to answer the OP, you can get your answer and more from this list.
http://www.norcalcrx.org/tyson/pics/brakepartslist.gif

http://www.norcalcrx.org/tyson/brakepartslist.xls
 

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downest said:
If you want to stop better, get good tires. The stock Si brakes are plenty to stop a CRX.
True, but I've heard good things about the stopping power of a DA MC and Booster. Have any of you run it with the stock 90-91 crx si brake system (i.e. the 2040 prop valve and stock calipers)? Any experiences?
 

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CRXperiment said:
downest said:
If you want to stop better, get good tires. The stock Si brakes are plenty to stop a CRX.
True, but I've heard good things about the stopping power of a DA MC and Booster. Have any of you run it with the stock 90-91 crx si brake system (i.e. the 2040 prop valve and stock calipers)? Any experiences?
You can use the MC and booster, but don't use the prop valve unless you use DA or EX front brakes. You won't get as much fluid to the front brakes, so you'll lock up the rears more and get less out of the fronts.
 

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changing the MC/BB only changes the mechanical/hydraulic advantage from the pedal to the brakes. but it doesnt change the actual braking performance.

in other words, it just changes the pedal travel and feel of the pedal. thats it.
 

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rfalls86 said:
so cross drilled / slotted with ceramic pad would be a good bet? cus im looking to upgrade thx for info 8)
Pads yes. Rotors, that really depends on what you beleive in. I've had slotted, drilled, slotted and drilled, and I'm going back to blanks for a reason, they ain't worth there money, especially since any REAL braking I do is at the 1/4 mile or a small circuit strip near here, other then that it's over kill for my setup.

I recommend blanks with ceramic pads. Another thing to check into is tires. Brakes can stop the tire from spinning completely and allow you to skid, make sure you don't go to harsh and are overpowering the rest of the car/tires.
 

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ZeniceguyCRX said:
slottewd and cross driled rotor help a lot.

my dx would try to stop from a 220kmh ripper down to 0
at about 80 I had the pedel mashed and didnt realy have brakes anymore.

switched to slotted/drilled roters and could come down to 0 from 220 no problem at all.

switched to ceramic pads and it got even better. look into it. the perfomance rotors work by eliminating a gas buildup from the braking materil wich acts almost like hydro plaining on your tires in the ran.

they make a big diff
This is the problem with the 'sport compact' scene. So many people think they will benefit from the same equipment because its used on the track.

Yes, the rotors will make a difference when braking really hard from 220km/h down to 0 but unless your track racing your car then its not worth it. I wouldn't do it for an autocross car either as its still not fast enough to really get the pads that hot.

Putting Slotted or cross drilled rotors on your car is like putting a chute on the back... Your not going to be going fast enough to make it useful. Same goes for racing pads. This being said I have done the cross drilled rotors and pads, thought it made a diff, then I put on new ebc pads and blanks and it feels exactly the same or better now.
 

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Dilbert said:
I wouldn't do it for an autocross car either as its still not fast enough to really get the pads that hot.
You may not be going that fast, but your using your brakes more then normal driving. Your brake system im sure gets hot real quick.
 

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ludesrv said:
I've had slotted, drilled, slotted and drilled, and I'm going back to blanks for a reason, they ain't worth there money, especially since any REAL braking I do is at the 1/4 mile or a small circuit strip near here, other then that it's over kill for my setup.
honestly and objectively, drilled rotors would theoretically help your drag times due to less rotational mass. and is about the only time i can see them being useful.
 
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