Where to get aftermarket Front and Rear Sway Bars

1892 Views 3 Replies 2 Participants Last post by bobski, Nov 12, 2005

Stavros

Discussion Starter · Nov 12, 2005

Im looking for a more exciting suspension solution without having to lower my car. I have polyurethane bushings installed all over the front, and most of the rear. I want to get thicker sway bars front and rear.

ive found one online shop who offers a Suspension Techniques kit, 7/8" diameter front and rear for $250. I was wondering if suspension techniques is a reputable company. I wanna get my cornering kicks, but for cheap. I dont want junk though.

Neuspeed's rear sway bar is ridiculously expensive, and i dont know why that would be.

Can anyone point me in a direction for the best prices, and good quality products?

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bobski

· #2 · Nov 12, 2005

I've been running that swaybar set for a few years now. The only thing I don't like about it is the rear end-links. It uses a pair of spherical rod ends for each link which have started squeaking and rattling... I think it's because grit has entered the joint and accelerated the rate of wear. Cleaning the joints out with solvent and applying a heavy grease helps, but the problem is generally back within a month.
I guess the only solutions would be to find some kind of sealed rod ends, or fabricate some brackets so you can use more a common set of rod-and-bushing endlinks.

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Stavros

Discussion Starter · #3 · Nov 12, 2005

what about getting some big heat-shrink tubes and covering the ends with that? i dont know if you can even GET heat shrink that big, but after cleaning the ends and greasing them up, sealing it with heat shrink should keep the grit outta there.

thanks for the feedback, btw

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bobski

· #4 · Nov 12, 2005

Yeah, that's a thought. Or even using some sort of rubber boot to cover each side of the joint... Sort of like the stock ball joint boots. A suction cup of the proper size with a hole drilled through the middle would probably do it. The trouble with trying to seal the joint is that keeping dirt out can also keep moisture in.
I've also been trying to find rod ends of the proper size with built in zerk fittings. That would make re-greasing the joints just a matter of snapping on a grease gun.

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