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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I replaced the crank seal on my '91 DX and it's already begun leaking within just a few years. The replacement part was from National and is made of silicone. The other seals I'm looking at are from Timken, which is made of Polyacrylate and also Continental, which states nothing of the material but says is the prefect OE replacement part.

There's quite a difference in prices. Which brand of seal should I go with and why?

I noticed the leak that sprung again at my front crank seal did not exist before I put it up on jacks, is it possible I caused the leak to begin somehow when lowering or raising the vehicle? Maybe I ruined this seal...
 

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I noticed the leak that sprung again at my front crank seal did not exist before I put it up on jacks, is it possible I caused the leak to begin somehow when lowering or raising the vehicle? Maybe I ruined this seal...
With that theory of thinking, your car can never go up a hill or an incline because it could cause seals to fail?
C'mon now, can we think about things??
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
With that theory of thinking, your car can never go up a hill or an incline because it could cause seals to fail?
C'mon now, can we think about things??
When I was lowering the vehicle it sort of fell an inch or two on that side, was sort of loud. Then noticed the leak that was definitely not there before. I suppose I wasn't thinking so much about how an incline would influence the seal as much as the car sort of taking a small drop. I didn't neccessarily think the drop would be a factor but for whatever reason, a leak started at my crank again at the moment I lowered it after replacing the exhaust. Coincidence.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
With that theory of thinking, your car can never go up a hill or an incline because it could cause seals to fail?
C'mon now, can we think about things??
When I was lowering the vehicle it sort of fell an inch or two on that side, was sort of loud. Then noticed the leak that was definitely not there before. I suppose I wasn't thinking so much about how an incline would influence the seal as much as the car sort of taking a small drop. I didn't neccessarily think the drop would be a factor but for whatever reason, a leak started at my crank again at the moment I lowered it after replacing the exhaust. Coincidence.
So what kind of seal do you use, or recommend?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I don't see how raising the car can cause a seal to leak.

Maybe they are not installed flat? Did you use a seal setter thing? hammers and screw drivers will ruin them.
I wasn't really clear enough in my initial message. When I was in the processess of lowering the vehicle, the front driver's side fell a few inches and it was sort of loud. I didn't really think even that would matter but I don't know these things for sure. I didn't use a seal setter either, no. I didn't use anything.

I'll probably replace the seal anyway. Is there a preference?
 

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OEM Honda should still be available and is the preference. Pn below, they are ~$13 online, plus shipping. Cheap considering the cost of your labor.

You should be able to start the seal install by hand, but you need that special tool to get it to sit flush. One thing I've done in the past is to use the old oil seal I just removed, after cleaning, and flip it around and use it to push against the new seal. Then you can very softly hammer against the old seal and it will distribute the force to the new seal without damaging it like it would if you hit it with a hammer directly. This takes some finesse, you have to be soft and hammer around the perimeter slowly going around the whole diameter.


Front main seal (behind timing belt, part of oil pump)
Oil Seal (31X46X8)
91212-PE0-662
 

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Also lowering your car cannot damage the seal. The only thing that damages the seal is a bad previous install, age, or excessive positive crankcase pressure pushing it out. You should change your PCV valve if when you open your oil cap or pull out the dipstick while the engine is running there is a strong pressure outward/puffing, which is a sign of high crankcase pressure which can pop a seal out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Also lowering your car cannot damage the seal. The only thing that damages the seal is a bad previous install, age, or excessive positive crankcase pressure pushing it out. You should change your PCV valve if when you open your oil cap or pull out the dipstick while the engine is running there is a strong pressure outward/puffing, which is a sign of high crankcase pressure which can pop a seal out.
Yeah, definitely my imagination going to the wrong place. The minor accident I had when lowering the vehicle didn't do anything to the seal. I believe I didn't set the seal as well as I should have and it gave out when I turned the engine back on after a few days. I did an oil change at this time too.

The previous seal was brittle and difficult to remove, I completely ruined it. I think I remember using the Cam-seal, or at least another seal in the set that was close size. I used that to push the crank seal in, but I didn't apply any more force. Thanks for the installation tip, this was important to do.

Thank you for the seal preferrence. It may not have mattered but I'd still like a better seal. Thanks!
 

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Try and find OEM seals.

You need a tool like this to set it properly. Need to check the diameters available on this kit.

The problem with those driver tools is they assume the crank isn't there. In this case they do not work unless he pulls the oil pump, which would require him pulling the oil pan, etc. I definitely would agree that those are the right tools for the job if the motor is out of the car and apart so he can install the seal directly to the oil pump before installing the pump into the block.
 
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