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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've bought the Prothane complete bushing kit, and I remember someone saying that theres one bushing that you should not use the polyurethane for. I can't remember if it was the rear lower control arm or the rear trailing arms. If I recall it may have been stickershop who said this.

I think you mentioned that that peice actually needs to swivel a little, and the polyurethane bushing prevents it from doing that.

Stickershop, I also noted that you mentioned in crxfisher's thread not to use the ball joint boots, but I was wondering how you felt about the tie rod boots?

Help me out guys. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I just read on H-T that its the rear trailing arm that I should not replace with the poly bushings. They also say not to use them for the inner bushing on the front LCA as it causes some suspension binding as well...anyone have any input on this?
 

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chet90si said:
I've bought the Prothane complete bushing kit, and I remember someone saying that theres one bushing that you should not use the polyurethane for. I can't remember if it was the rear lower control arm or the rear trailing arms. If I recall it may have been stickershop who said this.

I think you mentioned that that peice actually needs to swivel a little, and the polyurethane bushing prevents it from doing that.
For daily driving, the Prothane and Energy Suspension rear trailing arm bushings will give you a tighter feel. However, under aggressive driving circumstances, they will prevent the rear trailing arm from being able to move side to side in the manner that it is supposed to. You may get unpredictable handling results if you drive really hard with this setup. For aggressive driving, get a set of brand new OEM trailing arm bushings. Honda redesigned them (borrowed the design) after recalling them a number of years ago. They are now identical in design and hardness to the Mugen rear trailing arm bushings.

chet90si said:
Stickershop, I also noted that you mentioned in crxfisher's thread not to use the ball joint boots, but I was wondering how you felt about the tie rod boots?
Stick with stock boots. They provide a perfect seal already. I know for a fact that the Energy Suspension balljoint and tierod end boots will *not* keep water and dirt out of your balljoints (resulting in premature balljoint failure).

Hope that helps!
 

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ive known numerous people to be fine with the rear TA bushing in poly. the prothan will restrict movment but the ES will not. the ES uses a flaoting pin design which allows the trailing arm to rotate along the pin and slide along the pin. the same axis that the stock bushing moves across.
 

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and the bushing you shouldnt replace is the ball joint boots and tie rod end boots. they dont seal right and water and dirt can get in them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks alot guys!

I actually ended up doing alot of research on the whole rear TA bushing debate, and since I plan on autoXing this car regularily, I've decided to go with the stock ones. I was also told by some road race/autocross people to keep the stock Honda inner front LCA bushings. They say that under "tight turning/quick acceleration circumstances" the poly bushings will cause unneccessary wheel hop, which is not good since I'll be running an LSD.

Also, thanks alot for the info on the boots. If I didn't have this site I definatley would have put those on and learned the hard way. :?
 

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GSRCRXsi said:
ive known numerous people to be fine with the rear TA bushing in poly. the prothan will restrict movment but the ES will not. the ES uses a flaoting pin design which allows the trailing arm to rotate along the pin and slide along the pin. the same axis that the stock bushing moves across.
The ES bushings do have a floating pin, however, it would require that you grease it regularly for it to remain effective. In addition, since it is "floating", it doesn't have any real mechanism to pull it back into the center position after it has shifted to one side. With the stock bushings, the tension of the rubber pulls everything back to it's normal equilibrium after being pulled out of position. With the ES bushing, this does not happen as consistently.
 

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i have these on my crx. very stiff, tight feel. I have the ES bushings on my civic and my teg, ive never noticed any unpredictable handling (not to say that it doesn thappen)



also i second the 'dont use the dust boots' comment, they really suck.

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