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Which hood to fit a B16?

7532 Views 27 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  crsexed91
I need to replace my OEM hood on my 90 SI, and would like to be able to not have the top of the motor touching the hood.
Any clues?

Thanks, Dave
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Does the US OEM hood touch the top of the motor?
If not, just get another US hood.

The only "other" hood to get would be the SIR hood, but then that would require you to do the entire SIR front end conversion.
I have a factory hood and I never had a clearance issue with my B16. Maybe it's the mounts your using because most mounts are designed around the factory hood.
I was a little worried looking at my engine in the bay that it may touch with the hood on.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v474/ ... G_1761.jpg
I've got oldschool Hasports...
Vis sells a carbon fiber hood that's "SiR-style" giving you extra clearance without needing to do a full JDM front end. If you're not into the CF look, just paint it. You'll probably need to repaint any other hood you buy anyway.

There are also a couple tricks you can do to get extra clearance with the stock hood. You can use washers on the hood hinge bolts to lift the rear of the hood, or washers under the hood latch to lift the front of the hood, or washers on the driver's side mount to move the engine slightly lower. And of course you can cut the bracing off the underside of the hood with a dremel and a cutting disc, but that will make the hood weaker.

I'd recommend the Vis hood, it gives you plenty of clearance and gives the car a meaner look. I was going to post a pic but I can't find a good one.
jfrolang said:
Vis sells a carbon fiber hood that's "SiR-style" giving you extra clearance without needing to do a full JDM front end. If you're not into the CF look, just paint it. You'll probably need to repaint any other hood you buy anyway.
I'd recommend the Vis hood, it gives you plenty of clearance and gives the car a meaner look. I was going to post a pic but I can't find a good one.
Forgot the VIS "SIR style" hood for US cars.
If your worried about clearnace issues, this would def be the best and most cost effective solution.
There shouldn't really be any clearance issues though, should there?
the corner of mine touched the hood skeleton. You can either buy a new hood, or shim the motor mount and hood depending on how much room you need.
B16? I didnt think there was a problem?

My car has a cf hood so I can't comment.

B20 deck height is up as well as the H22's.
Some hoods rub, some don't.
It all depends on the car. I've seen well over 20 swaps in person. About half of them rubbed.

If it does, you could cut out part of the webbing underneath the hood. It's not pretty, but it works.
I thought the only problem was with the B20, H series, and K series.......

LEt us know how this turns out.
and c1s are defintely taller. with my EFB2 mounts and my c1 it rubbed on my hood, but it wouldnt have with an a1 or b1

I think now i could put my head on top of my motor wiht no problem and put my hood on

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b16's will rub depending on the mounts.
b18C1&5,b20,h22 and K's will rub because they are all taller.
Please note that the only engine that have rubbing issue in the 1.8 and 2.0L mark is the vtec ones (or the frankensteins) as my LS has NO rubbing issues (neither did my B16) with Avid mounts on factory hood.
The b18's and the b20's and H22 have taller decks. I agree.

There was someone on this site who cut an odd hood scoop to fit it. I can't remember who.

As to the mounts, there can be a difference by brands in terms of engine positioning. I found that out. I have non hasport mounts and the engine is a bit more forward, maybe an inch or so. You can see it in the tail end of the linkage. I bought a set of Hassport for my b20 bottem end that I am installing and matching linkage. I was able to work around the engine placement, but the mounts are too darn hard and I'm sick of vibrating at low rpms when I take off.
Guess I am just and old fart, but great street race cars don't have to behave like that.

Richie
Maybe you hot the harder durometer for the mounts...
The street kit is stiff, but not unbearable.
75A here. Its like a massage at idle :)

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I have Hasport mounts, also some moron (not me, I'm an idiot, there is a difference :wink: ) closed the hood with the prop rod in the hole.
Sooo, that side is broken.
I like to tell people that it is a way to get the hot air out of the engine bay, so the motor runs cooler...( like I said, I'm an idiot that thinks my stupid jokes are the funniest in the world, just ask the wife, she suffers through my "jokes" daily)
I want to replace the hood anyway and was just wondering which one would have the clearance to not rub.
I'll go get a pic to show ya guys what I'm talking about...give me a day or 2.

Thanks, guys, I appreciate all the responses

Dave
IF you have the new style Hasport mount (even the old style I beleive) then your factory hood should clear no problem. Look into the alignment of the hood and make sure it's all good. Too low of a rad support can yield some interesting results.
I have a d16z6 in my 88 si and it is barely touching. I was worried that it would mess up my nology hotwires, but it didn't. Also dont buy nology, just get the flippin msd's.
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