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Discussion Starter · #481 ·
Finally got around to extracting the video from the gopro.

Road test after suspension change (to 4kgf springs)

And this is a video while I'm testing the regen braking.

One of the things I miss from driving a CRX with a ICE is the sound. The revs. And so, a silly side project, thus a note below for myself for stuff I'm researching... ;)


Still doing research on compatibility but lets just say this is for fun :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #482 ·
Listing out a new "to-do" list in no particular order

  • Balance 40kwh battery
  • Upgrade battery from 24kwh to 40kwh
  • Cycle and top balance 40kwh battery
  • Install HVAC and AC? (Requires accelerator pedal modification due to clearance issues) Heatpump?
  • Add cabin airfilter? (Didn't come with OEM)
  • Decode Insight Canbus and Leaf Canbus to display Leaf data on Insight cluster
  • Build decoder/repeater to load data on insight cluster
  • Design battery relocation and frame reinforcement
  • Relocate batteries by reinforcing frame, fabricating battery box
  • Fabricate new recovered trunk/cargo space
  • Remove axles and make a spare set
  • Send axles to Colorado for fabrication
  • Install new custom machined axles
  • Upgrade tires for low rolling resistance?
  • Clean and repaint engine bay?
  • install ibooster brake system
  • install active sound control for fun?
 

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Discussion Starter · #485 ·
It's strange to see it driving but have no sound, other than the road noise.
agreed. Its not too bad but I do miss the sound of the revving motor. Hence I'm humorously exploring active sound systems that fake engine sounds. Maybe make it sound like a jet engine? :ROFLMAO:

 

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Discussion Starter · #487 ·
Misc info for suspension.

I got the MEDIEVAL-PRO V2 DAMPER KIT BY TEIN with springs because the rear of my car is significantly heavier and I wanted to raise the height a bit where my springs and shocks weren't just fully compressed.

Well the Tein springs aren't really that tall even when adjusted to maximum height because this is for "lowering" the car when I'm trying to raise the car.

However these Tein springs are pretty standard sized so I found Eibach springs worked perfectly with more height

Eibach 250-70-0040 Coil Over Spring (ERS 250mm Length x 70mm ID).

Automotive tire Coil Coil spring Suspension Shock absorber


They both have an Inner diameter of 70mm. There are several heights available otherwise.

Tire Wheel Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive tire


Just an fyi for anyone who might need adjustable suspension but not exactly want it to be "lower".


Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tail & brake light Car
 

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HOW TO: Insight Cluster Swap (Work in progress; INCOMPLETE)
This is a DIY. If you want the easy way, you can buy a harness for the conversion. Google is your friend. First off, this how to will vary based on the car you are installing the cluster into. This means you need the wiring diagram for your car! So I will primarily focus on the Insight Cluster wiring itself. Wiring conversions are really just a matching game. You need all the cards (wire labels), you need to know how to read a wiring diagram, and you need to join them up (Solder or crimp). So first off, data sources: Insight Cluster Pin out PDF Insight Cluster Wiring (source 1) Insight Cluster Wiring (Honda) Some wiring diagrams I happen to have: 1993 Honda Civic VX WiringPDF 1986 Honda CRX SI Wiring 1989 Acura Integra Wiring 1989 Honda CRX SI Cluster Wiring Download the insight cluster pin out, both wiring diagrams, and the diagram of your car. Then print them out. It'll make your life better to be able to cross out what you've done and haven't and don't plan to "convert". What you'll need: [*]Insight Cluster 1999-2001 [*]You need the plugs for the cluster. I only needed A and B. C plug is not needed. (Image is missing C. Left to Right C,B,A) [*]solder or crimp [*]Electrical Tape to close up your connections (or heat shrink tubing) [*]multimeter [*]Convertor for Speedometer, Coolant, Fuel (I used the K-Tuned S2000 Dash converter KTD-S2K-CON) [*]VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) [*]Optional momentary switch (to control the cluster fuel display) Back of Cluster
The speedometer, coolant, fuel passes through the ECU just like it does for the S2000 thus the signal sent to the cluster requires conversion and adjustment. Optionally, you'll also find that cluster has a Blu/Org at pin A7 that goes to the fuel consumption switch. This should be wired up to a momentary switch (example) that is wired to ground. It is also used to hide the MPG if you want to. Now comes the hard part, matching one wire at a time. Will update add more to this post when I have time....
Hi I have a question about millivolts to cluster insight for configuration ktuned converter do you have please i need this information thx
 

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HOW TO: Insight Cluster Swap (Work in progress; INCOMPLETE)
This is a DIY. If you want the easy way, you can buy a harness for the conversion. Google is your friend. First off, this how to will vary based on the car you are installing the cluster into. This means you need the wiring diagram for your car! So I will primarily focus on the Insight Cluster wiring itself. Wiring conversions are really just a matching game. You need all the cards (wire labels), you need to know how to read a wiring diagram, and you need to join them up (Solder or crimp). So first off, data sources: Insight Cluster Pin out PDF Insight Cluster Wiring (source 1) Insight Cluster Wiring (Honda) Some wiring diagrams I happen to have: 1993 Honda Civic VX WiringPDF 1986 Honda CRX SI Wiring 1989 Acura Integra Wiring 1989 Honda CRX SI Cluster Wiring Download the insight cluster pin out, both wiring diagrams, and the diagram of your car. Then print them out. It'll make your life better to be able to cross out what you've done and haven't and don't plan to "convert". What you'll need: [*]Insight Cluster 1999-2001 [*]You need the plugs for the cluster. I only needed A and B. C plug is not needed. (Image is missing C. Left to Right C,B,A) [*]solder or crimp [*]Electrical Tape to close up your connections (or heat shrink tubing) [*]multimeter [*]Convertor for Speedometer, Coolant, Fuel (I used the K-Tuned S2000 Dash converter KTD-S2K-CON) [*]VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) [*]Optional momentary switch (to control the cluster fuel display) Back of Cluster
The speedometer, coolant, fuel passes through the ECU just like it does for the S2000 thus the signal sent to the cluster requires conversion and adjustment. Optionally, you'll also find that cluster has a Blu/Org at pin A7 that goes to the fuel consumption switch. This should be wired up to a momentary switch (example) that is wired to ground. It is also used to hide the MPG if you want to. Now comes the hard part, matching one wire at a time. Will update add more to this post when I have time....
Hi I have a question about millivolts to cluster insight for configuration ktuned converter do you have please i need this information thx
HOW TO: Insight Cluster Swap (Work in progress; INCOMPLETE)
This is a DIY. If you want the easy way, you can buy a harness for the conversion. Google is your friend. First off, this how to will vary based on the car you are installing the cluster into. This means you need the wiring diagram for your car! So I will primarily focus on the Insight Cluster wiring itself. Wiring conversions are really just a matching game. You need all the cards (wire labels), you need to know how to read a wiring diagram, and you need to join them up (Solder or crimp). So first off, data sources: Insight Cluster Pin out PDF Insight Cluster Wiring (source 1) Insight Cluster Wiring (Honda) Some wiring diagrams I happen to have: 1993 Honda Civic VX WiringPDF 1986 Honda CRX SI Wiring 1989 Acura Integra Wiring 1989 Honda CRX SI Cluster Wiring Download the insight cluster pin out, both wiring diagrams, and the diagram of your car. Then print them out. It'll make your life better to be able to cross out what you've done and haven't and don't plan to "convert". What you'll need: [*]Insight Cluster 1999-2001 [*]You need the plugs for the cluster. I only needed A and B. C plug is not needed. (Image is missing C. Left to Right C,B,A) [*]solder or crimp [*]Electrical Tape to close up your connections (or heat shrink tubing) [*]multimeter [*]Convertor for Speedometer, Coolant, Fuel (I used the K-Tuned S2000 Dash converter KTD-S2K-CON) [*]VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) [*]Optional momentary switch (to control the cluster fuel display) Back of Cluster
The speedometer, coolant, fuel passes through the ECU just like it does for the S2000 thus the signal sent to the cluster requires conversion and adjustment. Optionally, you'll also find that cluster has a Blu/Org at pin A7 that goes to the fuel consumption switch. This should be wired up to a momentary switch (example) that is wired to ground. It is also used to hide the MPG if you want to. Now comes the hard part, matching one wire at a time. Will update add more to this post when I have time....
please i need information about millivots for ktuned converter do you have???
 

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Discussion Starter · #490 ·
Hi I have a question about millivolts to cluster insight for configuration ktuned converter do you have please i need this information thx
dude one message is enough. What do you mean millivolts? are you trying to calibrate the fuel gauge? Its been a few years now so I don't have those numbers anymore and I don't even use the ktuned anymore (nor do I have fuel for that matter :ROFLMAO: )

I'd suggest filling up the tank and playing with the numbers until its 100%. Otherwise you can ask on the facebook page since there are some other people who also did this mod.
 

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dude one message is enough. What do you mean millivolts? are you trying to calibrate the fuel gauge? Its been a few years now so I don't have those numbers anymore and I don't even use the ktuned anymore (nor do I have fuel for that matter :ROFLMAO: )

I'd suggest filling up the tank and playing with the numbers until its 100%. Otherwise you can ask on the facebook page since there are some other people who also did this mod.
Ok thx
 

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Discussion Starter · #492 ·
I've mostly been posting over on the DiyElectricCar forums since I've been doing EV related work but here are some updates.

First off, about August 2022, I fried my battery pack. I had one bad cell which went undervoltage, shorted the whole pack, and it started to smoke and sizzle but no fire.

With that, I had the car towed home and tore out the battery pack.

Car Vehicle Hood Trunk Motor vehicle


Naturally... if the battery pack is out, its a good time to build a proper battery box.

So I did some planning, mocking out where the battery would go and if it'd even fit.

Hood Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive exterior Automotive design


The default 12 module stack wouldn't fit in the fuel tank area. So I needed to modify the pack and ironically, I already had the batteries laid out exactly as I would end up fitting them
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Wood Vehicle


So I measured many times, planned and planned and cut a hole over where the fuel tank used to be.

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive exterior Gas Bumper


Our cars are mostly thin sheet metal with little structural integrity needed to support a 600lb battery so I knew I needed to reinforce the car and so what came next was a subframe.

Measure cut weld repeat.
Plant Wood Gas Rectangle Flooring


And so I had a lower subframe attached to the rear frame over the axle, the sides, and support for the front which was lacking.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive design Automotive exterior


New batteries came in. 40kwh. 150 miles of range.
Building Urban design Engineering City Landscape


Manually balanced all the cells to ensure they were as close in voltage as possible before installation.

Circuit component Audio equipment Electrical wiring Electricity Computer hardware


Then came the top subframe. Measure cut weld repeat.

Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Bumper


The top frame essentially clamps to the underbody subframe creating a solid box that will hold the battery and also stiffen the rear of the car.

Plant Tire Wood Urban design Gas


continued...
 

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Discussion Starter · #493 ·
And then comes the actual lower battery box itself. plan measure cut weld repeat

Grille Bumper Automotive exterior Wood Gas


Since the battery layout is custom, the insultation covers had to be modified to fit. BMS wires had to be relocated. etc.
Tire Product Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wheel


Drop the 300 lb half battery in (it got stuck and didn't fit)
Wheel Tire Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle


Once I finally pry it into place with a lot of effort, I begin redesigning how the electrical will be handled
Motor vehicle Automotive design Electrical wiring Automotive exterior Gas


I'd say its a good improvement.
Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Gas Auto part


Second 300 lb battery stack goes in
Tire Wheel Automotive parking light Vehicle Car


300lbs in.

Car Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive design Hood


Hook up all the wiring and power test


Clean up tidy up weigh the car and see the difference

Automotive parking light Tire Wheel Vehicle Car


Scale Measuring instrument Gadget Communication Device Font

148lb difference but still 1000 lbs lighter than the 3,508 lb Nissan Leaf. Which means I should get even better range :cool:

Took a test drive


And finally built a battery box cover and redid my cargo cover. I have a trunk again!


Moving the battery in front of the rear axle centered the weight and especially with half the battery in the fuel tank area, the car feels very grounded. With the subframe and steel battery box, the battery doesn't sound "loose" or shift in any "scary" ways so its quite nice.

Being an EV, the torque is still quite insane and I have yet to have a sunny day to test so I don't know how well it'll pull but it'll be sunny hopefully soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #494 ·
Took pictures of the car. I think we like pictures :)

Wheel Tire Vehicle Car Window


Wheel Tire Car Automotive side marker light Automotive parking light


Wheel Car Tire Land vehicle Sky


Vehicle Motor vehicle Car Hood Automotive design


Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Steering part Automotive design


Car Vehicle Gear shift Motor vehicle Car seat cover


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Automotive exterior Automotive design


Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Automotive tire


Tire Wheel Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting





Misc facts about this EV conversion since I get asked these questions a lot.

I'm running a 40kwh battery. In a Nissan Leaf its rated for about 150 miles of range.

The CRX with battery and motor is 2500lbs which is 1000lbs lighter than the 3500 Nissan Leaf.

Did a test drive last week and calculated 218 miles range based on my driving. It probably will vary depending on how aggressive or economic I drive.
(SOC = state of charge which is a measure of battery percentage)
Font Circle Number Pattern Brand


The motor is tiny and can probably fit where the fuel tank used to be in a CRX. So if someone is interested in building a RWD CRX, its very possible.

Also the motor stack is actually composed of 3 things
  • Motor
  • Inverter
  • Charger
All three can be separated and located where ever you have room in a car. The motor is smaller than the short engine block. The transmission is about 1/3 the width of the Honda transmission (single speed).

The power/speed of the car is based on Battery & Inverter.

Nissan Leaf had about 3 different inverters which means 3 different speeds. They all used the same motor.
Nissan Leaf had about 3 different versions of the PDM (Power Distribution Module), also known as the charger. This means you have 3 different charging speed options.
Nissan Leaf had about 4 different generations of batteries that work for this build: 24, 30, 40, 62 kwh. 24-40 kwh batteries are similar shape and layout and size and weight so its an "easy" upgrade for range. 24 (80 miles) - 40 (150 miles)

Upgrading this EV conversion is as simple as swapping one of the parts listed above. I thus have an upgrade path for speed/power via inverter. I have already done the battery upgrade from 24 to 40kwh. I can still upgrade charging speed as well by going to the 3rd gen charger for faster charging.

Brakes are currently vacuum boosted still. I currently am using a vacuum pump found in some other GM/Chevy vehicles. It is connected to a pressure switch so it only runs when the vacuum pressure is low. I also have a valve to ensure it stays under vacuum pressure when not in use. Note that EVs are extremely quiet so this vacuum pump is the loudest thing in the car currently.

And because the vacuum pump is obnoxiously loud, I plan to replace my brake booster with the iBooster. It is an electronic brake booster found in the Tesla as well as some CR-Vs. The model I purchased came second hand from a CR-V.

The EV conversion still uses a radiator but EVs run quite cool so it isn't enough to heat a heater core/radiatior in the car. I'm running the HF half radiator. The coolant cools the charger, inverter, and motor. It uses an electric water pump which is the second loudest thing in the car after the vacuum pump but it isn't as obnoxious. The water pump comes from the Nissan Leaf.

The conversion route I took is not actually meant for "speed" or "power" but for cost and "ease".

The average cost for an EV conversion is 15K+ if you're buying parts off EVWest. This is because you need: Motor, Inverter, Charger, Battery, Controller, etc.

The 2013 Nissan Leaf can be found locally used for about $5000 dollars (which is what I bought it for). A Nissan Leaf is a working EV with everything "needed". If you just want an EV then its cheaper and 1000x easier to just buy a Leaf. However I like the CRX and the Leaf doesn't look or drive as nice (my opinion). A leaf due to its age and range makes a great donor to convert a CRX or any car. Tesla donors are probably faster but expect to spend over 20k is what I'd estimate.

Other than the Leaf, you'd need a controller and I used the $800 Resolve EV controller. Its theoretically possible to just swap over all the internal of the Leaf and get it working but the Resolve EV is fully documented and simplifies the swap immensely. Why code and build your own ECU when you can just buy one that makes it almost plug and play? With this you can swap it into almost any vehicle whether it be golf kart, go kart, CRX, CRZ, etc.

Next depending on your transmission, you can go with the existing single speed (cheaper and more efficient as its gear ratio was designed by Nissan) or you can mate the motor with your own transmission. Mating with another transmission requires an adapter plate and a coupler. Both need to be fabricated but a company called https://bratindustries.net/ does half the work for you by making the Leaf side of both motor and coupler. If you want 4WD, mating is the way to go. The single speed is probably good enough for most people.

If you go with the single speed then you need custom axles. I welded my axles together and am in the process is getting the shafts I welded professionally made by a machine shop.

Then you need mounts. We're blessed by the Honda scene for most of our engine mounts to be made for just about every popular swap. That doesn't apply to DIY electric cars because its an emerging scene. Also depending on your build, you might not really want to mount the motor in front. The motor is pretty close to the size of a transaxle so its completely reasonable to fit the motor in the rear if you have the skills to swap over a rear suspension from another vehicle that supports RWD. Food for thought.

Overall a Leaf swap isn't the fastest but it can be done perhaps the cheapest and completed quickly in comparison to other EV builds. EVs are capable of instant torque and even though the Leaf is slower than the Tesla, its capable of up to 200 HP.

So all in all its a pretty good swap. Its possible to get free charging at many companies and schools. Range is good enough for a local daily commuter vehicle. Its fast.

Cons is that the weight of the car increases about 600 lbs. Rear cargo space is taken up by the battery depending on the design. If single speed then you might miss the shifter. Its too quiet so you can't rev at people (working on fixing that).
 
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