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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been meaning to add in some switches for a while to control various systems in the car.

1. I need to make one for my amp, which is on with the ignition switch. That's no problem, just cut into the remote wire.

2. I want a switch to cut out all the interior lights at night. This includes the cluster, climate controls, and clock.

3. I want another switch to kill rear lights, separate from the inside lights. If it's like the integra, there should be a loom heading to the rear on the driver's side, I imagine there is one power and the grounds are all switched, is that right?

4. Since I don't need it, I'm going to take the LC-1 sensor out of the exhaust and close the bung with the plug they gave me. Will the LED blink a code? I want to put the LED and a switch for the LC-1 in the car at some point too, so I can leave it on the Acc position and not be operating the wideband. I like having the status LED, but if it's on the dash (currently behind the console) I feel like it will be too bright at night. Is there a good covered or dimmer LED that would work as a replacement, or should I just run another switch inline with it?
 

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1: do not cut the remote wire and connect it to the ign, to much current to the amp via remote line might damage it. easiest and safest thing to do is use a relay, have power and ground to the relay then you can either use a toggle switch to turn it on and off or use the cig lighter as a switch
turn on and off the trigger for the relay requires very little power/current

2: tap into the fuse box, there is a fuse for the interior, just tap fused switch to it and mount the switch somewhere

3: not sure about this one

4: unless your LC1 is connected to your ecu then it wont throw a code
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
1. The remote wire is currently the one that goes to the stock stereo (don't remember which), it's a low-current +12V.

2. I remember the rear lights and interior were on the same fuse...

4. The LC-1 has it's own LED, which blinks a certain way to throw it's own codes. But anyway, it IS connected to the ECU.
 

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3: The rear lights share a common ground point right next to the hatch latch and have a switched positive from the front of the car. You would need a relay for each set of lights you want to kill: tail, brake, reverse, left and right turn. I guess it's a matter of how sneaky you're trying to be. It's easy enough to simply not use the turn signals... That eliminates 2 relays. Disabling the reverse lights would only be important if you intend to back up while blacked out. Likewise with the brakes.
The rear harness runs down the left side of the car next to the driver, across the passenger compartment in front of the storage bin and back to the tail lights and hatch wiring on the right side. Use 5 pin automotive relays and connect the light circuit to the common and normally closed terminals. When you apply power to the coil, it will break the connection to the lights.
 

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1.) Well you got that figured out. You cant push too much +12v to the amp via trigger wire anyway, thats not how electricity works. Relaaying it would increase the current available anyway. The device draws the power from the available power source, its not pushed down to it.

2.) yup, tap off the fuse box, if you disconnect that fuse, itll all cut out.

3.)bobski;s idea sounds good

4.)The LC1 LED will blink if the sensor is disconnected. If you black out the led with a sharpie its much dimmer.

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