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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So of course... the car still isn't starting. I need some info on the harness wiring, I think I may have found a problem. When I check for continuity for IGN (Black/Yellow thick dizzy wire), which is supposed to go to pin B15 (I think) I get nothing. I counted the pins wrong and accidentally discovered that it goes to pin B13, which is the same as the starter wire (not the battery, the front, smaller one). On the OBD1 conversion harness, the guide I had, which seems to be right from a lot of people who've used it on HT, B13 goes to B09 and B15 goes to A21. For OBD1, A21 is labeled as starter. Is something wrong here? Do I need to split the wire off B13 to go to B09 AND A21?
 

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Tom I don't understand, if you are using a conversion harness why do you have to be messing with pin positions? The purpose of the harness is to redirect the neccessary wires to the proper positions. If I had a diagram of both ecu pinouts I'd go through it and help you out but I don't. On the "1" obd1 conversion I did, all I had to do was mess with vtec and o2s wires.
 

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...

OBD-0:
A21 - No connection
B09 - Reverse Lights Switch - (HF only) Between the switch and bulbs
B13 - Starter Signal - fed by fuse 2, same as blu/wht wire @ main relay
B15 - Ignition Signal Pin 1 - goes to the ignitor unit in the distributor

OBD-1:
A21 - Ignition Signal Pin 1 - goes to the ignitor unit in the distributor
B09 - Starter Signal - The starter solenoid signal after the interlock relay
B13 - TDC P - Goes to the TDC sensor in the distributor
B15 - CRNK P - Goes to the Crank sensor in the distributor

The heavy blk/yel wire is the distributor's power source from the ignition switch. The ignition signal wire you're looking for at pin B15/A21 is solid white on an OBD-0 harness or yel/grn on OBD-1.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Bobski. So with the switch in the ON position, I should be getting 12V to the black/yellow on the dizzy?
I also noticed tonight after more searching around, some use A16->A26 and A18->B02, while others use A16->B02 and A18->A26 for the Logic Grounds. I'm not sure they matter since they're both grounded, but it's worth a shot I guess. Switching those would make sense based on the wire colour from the car harness too, but again, they are both grounds (then again, it seems like a grounding issue with the injectors not working).

Heu, I made the harness myself, and there are a lot of inconsistencies out there as to what does and doesn't work I'm finding. I was checking the pins from the dizzy as well to make sure I have that wired right. Finding a good wiring diagram for the Y7 dizzy is a good time too...
I posted my conversion thing in another thread, but I may as well do it again here, I found this on HT and it seems to be right (with the ground question now, but as it is I haven't changed that yet). I ran wires to the VTEC solenoid, the pressure switch, and grounded the black pressure switch wire to the thermostat ground.

ECU CONVERSION
OBD0 - Function --> OBD1 - Function
A01 - INJ #1 --> A01 - INJ #1
A02 - PG1 --> A23 - PG1
A03 - INJ #2 --> A03 - INJ #2
A04 - PG2 --> A24 - PG2
A05 - INJ #3 --> A05 - INJ #3
A06 - PCS --> A20 - PCS
A07 - INJ #4 --> A02 - INJ #4
A08 - LOCKSOL --> XXXXXXXXXXX
A09 - NOTUSED--> XXXXXXXXXXXX
A10 - EGR CSV--> A11
A11 - IACV --> A09 - IACV
A12 - FLR1 --> A07 - FLR1
A13 - IGP1 --> A25 - IGP1
A14 - FLR2 --> A08 - FLR2
A15 - IGP2 --> B01 - IGP2
A16 - GRD --> A26 - LG1
A17 - NOTUSED--> XXXXXXXXXXXX
A18 - GRD --> B02 - LG2
B01 - VBP --> D01 - VBU
B02 - NOTUSED--> XXXXXXXXXXXX
B03 - ACC --> A15 - ACC
B04 - FANC --> A12 - FANC
B05 - ALT --> A16 - ALT
B06 - MIL --> A13 - MIL
B07 - NOTUSED--> XXXXXXXXXXXX
B08 - ACS --> B05 - ACS
B09 - NOTUSED--> XXXXXXXXXXXX
B10 - CYP P --> B11 - CYP P
B11 - FUSEBOX--> xxxxxxxxxxxx
B12 - CYP M --> B12 - CYP M
B13 - FUSEBOX--> B09 - STARTER
B14 - ALT --> D09 - ALT
B15 - Igniti --> A21 - ICM
B16 - VSS --> B10 - VSS
B17 - Igniti --> A22 - ICM
B18 - NOTUSED--> XXXXXXXXXXXX
B19 - ELD --> D10 - ELD
B20 - SCS --> D04 - SCS
C01 - CKP P --> B15 - CKP P
C02 - CKP M --> B16 - CKP M
C03 - TDC P --> B13 - TDC P
C04 - TDC M --> B14 - TDC M
C05 - IAT --> D15 - IAT
C06 - ECT --> D13 - ECT
C07 - TPS --> D11 - TPS
C08 - EGR VLS--> D12
C09 - PA --> NOTUSEDXXXXX
C10 - BKSW --> D02 - BKSW
C11 - MILGRND--> D17 - MAP
C12 - SG2 --> D22 - SG2
C13 - VCC1 --> D19 - VCC1
C14 - SG1 --> D21 - SG1
C15 - VCC2 --> D20 - VCC2
C16 - O2S --> D14 - PHO2S

Dizzy:
OBD1
1.Orange
2.White
3.Orange/Blue
4.White/Blue
5.Blue/Green
6.Blue/Yellow
7Yellow/Green
8.Black/Yellow
9.Blue

OBD2
1Dark Blue
2White
3Green
4Red
5Yellow
6Black
7Yellow/Green
8Black/Yellow
9Blue

1CYPP
2CYPG
3TDCP
4TDCG
5CKPP
6CKPG
7ICM
8IGN OUTPUT
9TACH OUTPUT

where the large white wire on my harness is substituted for the yellow/green on the OBD1 list.
 

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The ground points you're talking about are just shielding grounds - I don't think the ECU will use them for anything but noise rejection. Matching the colors should be fine - that's what I did with my conversion.
The ECU's primary grounds should be A02->A23 and A04->A24. Heh... they could stand to be a little less cryptic with the function labels. It doesn't help if you have to figure out what the wire is for before you understand the label.
Oh, and yes, you should get 12v+ on the heavy blk/yel wire when the ignition is switched on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok I rechecked everything today and tried to start with a fresh battery. Nothing. I'm getting really frustrated (more and more!) and I think I'm going to return the ICM and cap, and spend another 20 for a new dizzy. A friend of mine gets a really good discount at NAPA, so I should be looking at ~150 for a new (reman) dizzy from them. I wish I knew someone in the area with an EK so I could try theirs out to see if it's the problem. Still, I don't know what else it could be, I've tried 2 ECUs, one known good, and neither does anything differently. I checked the main relay today, I've rechecked all the wiring and harness, everything seems to be right. It's been almost 4 weeks since I drove the car, and I really really miss it. I'm also looking forward to the new power it will have...
 

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Ya know what I've done in the past when faced with the dilemma of not having a part to substitute while already as frustrated as you are?... I went to the dealership to "test drive" a car that had the part I needed and brought it home. Nope, not what anyone might be thinking 'cause I put it back after I test it. I'm resourceful, not a crook!

Tom, I'm leaning towards, forgive me but, your wiring as the culprit. Sometimes somethings are overlooked or looked at wrong no matter how many times you look 'cause in your mind you think it's right. Just recently I had to fix an mpfi swap that someone swore up and down they did right. Well, it couldn't've been right if the injectors were wide open all the time right? I'm not even sure how they managed to do that but I redid everything from scatch and the problem was fixed.

Good luck and maybe a fresh pair of eyes might not be a bad idea. How far is Matt from you anyway?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Heu, no offense taken. I have a couple of friends who've been helping me a little, they've looked over the wiring too. The only mistake we found yesterday was the starter wire (B13-B09) wasn't going to B09, it was going to an unused automatic tranny pin. Fixed that and tried it, still nothing, and we checked it again and it was right. I've been checking with a multimeter, to make sure there's continuity, to rule out bad soldering. That's a good idea about the test drive... I'm trying to find someone around here with a 96-98 Civic I can borrow the dizzy from, but I don't know anyone directly so it's kind of a pain. I agree with you though, the wiring would be the easiest solution, it has the most room for error, but we've checked it so many times...
 

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not too far, but too far for driving my borrowed impreza :)

if all goes well my gsr powered crx should be firing up tonight, after that Id be happy to lend an eye or a hand. the honda gods have not been smiling at me lately either unfortunately.

heres a gratuitous shot of scooby-ride looking mean


[email protected]
 
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