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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I went to drop some tools of for my friend yesterday for his motor rebuild, and what do I see lying on his basement floor... two Z6 manifolds! I asked him how much for one, and he said 10 bucks! I haven't got it yet, I just want to make sure it's going to fit without problems with my stock injectors and stuff. I remember reading or PMing with someone on the Resource a while back about using a Z6 or Y8 IM because it's less restrictive. Is there any gain to using it? Will I need any specific parts to make it work? Will it be slower without the PGM-FI lettering!?!
 

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i don't think there is anything too speacial about it, just make sure you get the throttle body that goes with the manifold,

maybe someone esle can help more just my 2c
 

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yeah it does fit no need for a fuel rail cuz most d series are the same u would need the trottle body tho, the best one would be the y8 intake manifold its the same as the skunk 2 design only differance is taht skunk 2 has bigger ports and its smoother inside, if u have the z6 or the y8 manifolds u gain some good power, add an b16 or h22 throttle body and ull c a big differance. :D
 

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No you will need the fuel rail. I've owned a few different generation intake manifolds and you'll notice that the Pre-OBD (91-) mounting points are not the same as the OBD-1 (92-95). I'm unsure of OBD2.
 

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^^^ He is correct
The fuel rails are different.I found this one out firsthand.
I also could not get my A6 TB to line up correctly so I picked up a Z6 one.
 

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downest said:
I remember reading or PMing with someone on the Resource a while back about using a Z6 or Y8 IM
I believe that was me.

The information given you here in this thread (after the corrections) is correct. Remember to get the IM that has the map sensor still intact. (on TB)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok, he has the fuel rail and the TB for it, it's complete, pulled off his blown Z6 motor last year. Can you just put a h22 or b16 TB on there? I actually have a b18 TB someone gave me for free, will that do any good? Will this give a noticable gain, or is it just what all the cool kids are doing?
 

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From what I understand to see true gains from the larger throttle body you'll need to port match the opening in the Intake Manifold; Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I picked it up tonight and cleaned it out. I pulled the TB off to clean it and lube the spring, so I can't put it back on until I get a new gasket for that, and I'll probably get another intake manifold gasket. Everything is on it, and I got the fuel rail with the FPR. I'm going to get new vac lines tomorrow too, I had to break a few to get them off and it's probably better to just replace them all. Should I use the FPR from the A6 or the Z6, or will it make a difference? Also, what's the best way to clean out the inside of the mani? I put duct tape over the ends of the runners and filled it with parts cleaner and let it soak for about half an hour, then blew compressed air through it. It didn't seem to help too much.
 

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It's easier to use the OBD-0 one because the OBD-1 FPR Return Nipple is a smaller diameter. When I put my D15B (Similar to your Z6 IM) in I had to use the OBD-1 FPR because the old one was shot... that meant using a smaller return line to a convertor to the original return line hose cut in half. The hard return line at the firewall (near injector resistor box and brake booster) is too large to just run the OBD-1 return line directly.
 

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I'm currently running a B18b TB on my Z6 mani.
Although I did port match them,but you dont "have to".
Hope that helps...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The one I have is from a B18A. I'll stick with the Z6 one now I think. I have a friend who does CAD work at an engine shop near here, he's going to take the mani in and sandblast it, and then clean the inside out. I can get a lot of stuff for free there, if I decide to use the other one I'm sure he could port match it for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just wondering, since I'm going to replace the manifold, what can I remove as far as emissions and stuff? I don't have emissions requirements for inspection at home so it's not an issue. I'd like to have fewer vacuum lines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok more questions. I'm comparing the z6 manifold to the pictures I have of mine here on my computer. First of all, it looks like the line for the brake booster and also the white plug on the side of the A6 manifold are in different places on the Z6 one. Will I need to extend anything to make it fit, or should there be enough room? Also, there's a canister thing on the back of the A6 mani, what is that?

 

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the cansiter on the back is the coolant valve. EACV? <brainfart>

no PGMFi plaque?!?!?!?! I guess you don't need one when it says "VTEC" on the valve cover

I'm not familiar with the connections, but there is a decent amount of slack on the brake hose and the wire harness, so I would think they can be moved a bit to fit the Z6 manifold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It's got a spot for the plaque, I think it fell off. I'll go on ebay and get a "mugen power" thing to put on there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
To get to the real point: I'm giving my friend the manifold tonight, he's going up tomorrow to clean it up. I was reading last night about polishing/not polishing the manifold. It seems that a lot of people say not to do it, but don't know why. Also it seems like a lot of engine builders do it. The naysayers think that there needs to be turbulence for the fuel to atomize, but they don't seem to remember that the injectors do that, I'm not running a carb'ed first gen, and the injectors point right into the ports. Maybe it needs to be rough for air flow?
 

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The "canister" on the back is the EACV (Electronic Air Control Valve) which is used to increase the idle when the A/C cuts on so the engine doesn't bog/cutoff. There should be one on the Z6 (Not identical, smaller but uses same plug/wires)

The white plug is the Intake Air Temperature Sensor. You may need to extend the wires on your harness. I personally had to unwrap that part of the engine harness and untangle the wires for the correct plug to move it towards the back center section of the Intake Manifold rather that the original driverside.
 
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