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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Oh guys, sorry for being a post whore, but i'm gonna be starting my mini-me swap soon, i would like to know as much about it as i can before i start tearing things apart. My #1 concern is wireing, i have no clue how to wire up the VTEC solinoid, so any help there would be great. Aldo, the dizzy seems to have the same wire outputs in the same colors. I'm assuming these can connect right up with the wires from my harness.

I'm looking online about the swap and have found some stuff, but anything such as personal experiences, tips, advice, would be appreciated.
 

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I just finished the write up for my mini-me, I'll post it up tomorrow when I'm on my computer. I do have the wiring conversion for OBD1, as well as the dizzy wiring for 0, 1, and 2, from the write up:

>>>>Building the Conversion Harnesses<<<<

It's possible to use an SAFC unit or an RPM switch to activate the VTEC. I chose not to do this, I wanted to install the entire thing like it was meant to be done, with factory connectors and run the motor on and OBD1 P28. I also tried to make everything easily removable, I plan on getting another CRX soon and I want to be able to put this one back to stock and swap my motor over to the new car. So before you even touch the car, get all the wiring ready, it will reduce downtime. All connections should be soldered, with heat shrink over the joints. When you are done and know everything works (ie running the car) then go ahead and tape it all to make it look pretty.
First off you want to make the dizzy conversion harness. Go to a junkyard and cut off the harness side plug for the dizzy you are using. In my case this was a D16Y7 dizzy from a 98 Civic CX. It would be ideal to cut the dizzy side plug from an OBD0 car, but I couldn't find one. I decided to solder into the main harness because I didn't have another choice, and it's only 9 wires so it's easy to return to stock. Basically you just need to match colours, here are OBD0, OBD1, and OBD2 dizzy wire colours and functions, these are all verified by me after hours of verifying and checking, don't trust every post you read on Honda Tech! This wiring kept me hung up for a week getting no fuel, but I got straightened out by Ryan (the Ry in Rywire).

OBD0 OBD1 OBD2 Function
Orange Orange Yellow CYP P
Small White White Black CYP M
Orange/Blue Orange/Blue Green TDC P
White/Blue White/Blue Red TDC M
Blue/Green Blue/Green Dark Blue CKP P
Blue/Yellow Blue/Yellow White CKP M
Large White Yellow/Green Yellow/Green ICM
Black/Yellow Black/Yellow Black/Yellow IGN
Blue Blue Light Blue RPM

For the ECU conversion (you don't need this if you are already OBD1, or aren't converting) you need to get the ECU and some length of harness to work with. I pulled a P28 from a 92 EX at the yard, and instead of unclipping the harness I just cut a good length of wires to go with it. I got a junk OBD0 ECU from a friend (these should be free, don't ever pay for a PM5!) and removed the plugs by pulling it apart and desoldering them from the board. Now all you need to do is connect the wires.
For OBD0, the big, 18 pin connector is A. The other two are sort of connected, the first 20-pin one is B and the last one, 16-Pin, is C. For OBD1, They read A B D, A is the largest, a 26-pin connector, B has 16 pins, and D has 22.
The numbers are read this way: Looking at the plug on the wire side, as if it were plugged in, the top left is 1, and below it is 2, next to it is 3. So, odd numbers run across the top and evens across the bottom. It gets a little tricky doing this since you are looking at different sides of the two types of plugs, so be very careful and work slowly. If you need to, put a little masking tape to mark the plug numbers.

Here is the conversion, I skipped unused plugs.

OBD0 Function OBD1 Function

A01 INJ1 A01 INJ1
A02 PG1 A23 PG1
A03 INJ2 A03 INJ2
A04 PG2 A24 PG2
A05 INJ3 A05 INJ3
A06 PCSol A20 PCSol
A07 INJ4 A02 INJ4
A11 EACV A09 IACV
A12 FLR1 A07 FLR1 (Main Relay)
A13 IGP1 A25 IGP1 (MR/resistor box)
A14 FLR2 A08 FLR2
A15 IGP2 B01 IGP2
A16 GND B02 LG2
A18 GND A26 LG1

B01 VBP/Hazard D01 VBU/Hazard
B03 ACC A15 AC Clutch
B04 FANC A12 FANC
B05 ALT A16 ALT
B06 MIL A13 MIL (CEL)
B08 ACS B05 AC Sw
B10 CYP P B11 CYP P
B12 CYP M B12 CYP M
B13 Fusebox B09 Starter
B14 ALT D09 ALT
B15 Ignition A21 ICM
B16 VSS B10 VSS
B17 Ignition A22 ICM
B19 ELD D10 ELD
B20 SCS D04 SCS

C01 CKP P B15 CKP P
C02 CKP M B16 CKP M
C03 TDC P B13 TDC P
C04 TDC M B14 TDC M
C05 IAT D15 IAT
C06 ECT D13 ECT
C07 TPS D11 TPS
C10 BKSW D02 (Brake Switch)
C11 Mil GND (MAP) D17 MAP
C12 SG2 D22 SG2
C13 VCC1 D19 VCC1
C14 SG1 D21 SG1
C15 VCC2 D20 VCC2
C16 O2Sensor D14 PHO2sensor

You will have a few wires left on the OBD1 plugs. You need to run 3 of these into the engine bay. I soldered them onto a plug close to the harness so I could pull the harness out of the car without a long wire running to the plugs.
A04 goes to the VTEC solenoid
A06 goes to the O2 sensor
D06 goes to the VTEC pressure switch

Everything else left on the harness is for things like Automatic transmission and EGR. If you got a harness from an EX manual (where the P28 came from) you should be all set here.
Now, you need to take a break and do something else. Before you put this thing in, you need to check it at least once for continuity. DO NOT just follow the wires, you need to make sure all the connections are good. Take a break in between checks, or have someone else do it, it's very easy to make mistakes. Don't tape it all up until you run the car with it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thats great, thanks, but i actualy have a converson harness, so that kind of wireing isnt a problem. I'm woried about connecting the Vtec to the ECU. i have the VTEC solinoid, but not the connectors for the plugs and wires, so i dont know which output got to what or what color the wires that are for the VTEC are, i'll try to post a picture tomorrow.

In the meentime, i have read that you neeed to remove the oil control jet from the block because the head already has one and if you dont remoove it, VTEC will never engage. Is this true? And can i use my timing belt? or do i need to get a new one? cuz i cant get my crank pully off to save my life. But i do need one. I have a million other questions, but i want to keep things simple for the time. I am not starting this swap untill i am sure i know everything and have everything.
 

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Tiersin said:
thats great, thanks, but i actualy have a converson harness, so that kind of wireing isnt a problem. I'm woried about connecting the Vtec to the ECU. i have the VTEC solinoid, but not the connectors for the plugs and wires, so i dont know which output got to what or what color the wires that are for the VTEC are, i'll try to post a picture tomorrow.
Your conversion harness should have a wire for the VTEC, but you may need to solder an extension/plug onto it. You can either cut the plug off the VTEC solenoid and solder it right on, or get the plug from a yard or a spare harness. The cleanest way would be to get a new plug from another harness/JY. You can also go the VTEC pressure switch this way, it's the same shape as the coolant temp sensor plug under the dizzy.

In the meentime, i have read that you neeed to remove the oil control jet from the block because the head already has one and if you dont remoove it, VTEC will never engage. Is this true? And can i use my timing belt? or do i need to get a new one? cuz i cant get my crank pully off to save my life. But i do need one. I have a million other questions, but i want to keep things simple for the time. I am not starting this swap untill i am sure i know everything and have everything.
Yes, remove the oil control jet:


And you will want to use a Z6 or Y8 timing belt, they are the same length. Fitment will be tight, but the A6 belt is just too loose.
The crank pulley is one of those things you just have to keep working at. Here's what I do:
put 2 short bolts into the holes on the pulley, and rotate it with a hard bar between the bolts, braced on the ground or the suspension. Use a 1/2" (or 3/4" if you have it) ratchet or breaker bar, and some extensions to get it beyond the fender. Use a jackstand to hold the extensions from moving. Slip the handle of a floor jack over the ratchet/breaker bar, and start cranking on it. This is what I do with them when the impact gun won't take them off, it's never failed. Make sure you don't lose the Woodruff key!
 

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I went the G-hetto route when wiring up my Veeetech solenoid. A small car audio speaker connector will fit right onto the pin in the VTEC solenoid. I ran that wire through the firewall and then taped it up to my VAFC VTEC activation wire. I would recommend the correct plug from a junk yard but if you don't have access to a junk yard, this is just as easy to do and it works OK.
 

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I actually have a box with a chopped up but near complete Z6 harness and some spare plugs, when are you doing the swap? I won't be able to get to it until at the least this weekend, at the latest next weekend, but if you have a while I can send it to you, or if you are getting your stuff from matt maybe I can give it to him to include with the rest of the stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
that would be cool, i'm trying to do this swap as good as i can, so the spare plugs would work great, you have my AIM downest, so AIM me with the info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK, so i guess i need a new timing belt. Where can i get one? and how much are they usuialy. How is PB blaster for getting that crank bolt off?
 

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Tiersin said:
OK, so i guess i need a new timing belt. Where can i get one? and how much are they usuialy. How is PB blaster for getting that crank bolt off?
PB plaster is useless imho. If you must just soak it over night. Might help a tiny bit. What you need is to ghetto rig up a big huge extension for your breaker bar. leverage rules the world. I have never been defeated by a crank pulley bolt and I don't see it happening any day soon either ;)

You can go OEM honda for the belt if you wish but I never do. I never keep engines that long so I usually end up with a Diamonback belt from Napa. Works great and I beat the ever loving piss out everything I've ever built.

Wiring is easy dude. You have a conversion harness. It took me and my buddy about exactly 25 minutes to wire up his D15b.

Everything else has been covered and is 100% accurate. Good luck and take pics.

Don't worry you haven't acheived postwhore status until a lot of people hate you :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
and if you look to the bottom right ladies and gentleman, you can see the missing exhaust stud i discovered today. Can these be removed, if so, i'll just use one from my a6.

ok, so Boomslang is gonna repair the harness, so wireing should not be a problem anymore. one more queston, with the cam and sprocket, they both have indented groves. I'd post a pic, but i cant find my camaras cable. i'm talking about where the cam gear connects with the cam. There is a square notch on both of them, is all that holds the sprocket to the cam friction from the bolt and washer? it just seems dangerous. and i'm assuming that the 2 notched are supposed to line up. thanks for all the help guys.
 

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It's always that stud! Use 2 nuts and you can get them out, or get new ones cheap at a dealer or something. I ran my car, and my friend ran his EF without the exact same stud for months, no problems.
 

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if you cant geta stud out (very unlikely), ill send you one.

Theres a small key i sent you that locks the cam in place. I sent it only with the first cam, not with the second. its real small tapered silver piece.

they sem to get eating during shipping though, tom will attest to that. i think my cam keys are cursed.

[email protected]
 

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I think they are so small that when you open the package and see the bling cam gear, you don't notice them falling on the floor and under the table or being eaten by the cat or whatever.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
yea, i just searched through all the boxes and everything, i'm going to move everything out of the way tomorrow and see if i can find it, fortunatly, everything is in my living room and not my garage, where it would be gone forever. like the spring retainer that decided to go flying with my last rebuild.

*update* moved everything out...nothing...damn...so what now? would my a6 have one, i've never taken the gear off the cam. i'm gonna keep looking, if you know where i can get one, please help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
if you could, that would be great, sorry about that, i think downest was right, i got caught up with the bling cam gear....and i have cats. but would my a6 head have one? i could just use that if it did.
 

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You can buy key stock from mcmastercarr. The ground shipping got to my house over night both times I ordered from them. You may have to use a file to get the key stock to the right size, but it isn't hard to do.
 
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