[Tiersin]

OK guys, after many shipping problems, i have finaly gotten a conversion harness for my mini-me swap. Unfortunatly, i am retarted when it comed to wireing. I am going to need some help when instaling it.

My first question is about the 4 wire O2 sensor. There are 2 black wires, one green, and one white. I was hopeing one of them would conned to the origonal connector for the O2 sensor on the cars wire harness. Which wire would that be? And what are the functions of the 4 different wires. I'm assuming that the 2 blacks are ground.

Dose a Z6 have a knock sensor? I dont think it dose, just want to make sure.

On the VTEC solenoid, there are 2 plugs. one only has one white wire, the other has 2 wires, one black and one green. Which one is the solenoid signal and which is the pressure switch signal?

I am learning as i go, so any input on the matter would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[CRXBart]

http://www.knology.net/~jediklc/obd0toobd1swap.htm
Follow this to a T. I used it to make my own jumper harness on my OBD1 Z6 Beater. It worked great to this every day!

 

[RamaCrx]

My instructions from Rywire on their harness for the b16 are:

O2 sensor-
1) brown wire to black 02 sensor
2) purple to green O2 sensor
3) yellow to black o2
4 grey to white o2

Black to vtec solenoid (1 wire square shaped plug)

Green to VTEC pressure switch (below the vtec solenoid) blue wire
The othe wire just needs good ground (plug is green and round with 2 pins)

White wire to one wire knock sensor (1 pin plug above oil filter)

 

[Tiersin]

OK, so i have everything wired up, but it wont start. When i crank it, the CEL comes on saying i have codes 4 and 9. 4 is the MAP sensor, but i dont know which one that is. 9 is the CYP sensor, which i believe is in the dizzy.

I believe what i might have done if reverse the 2 white wires. I remember that there is one smaller white wire and one larger white wire. I think i reversed these.

Dose anyone know if no CYP would keep the car from starting?

 

[Angry]

When the CYP went out in my a6 dizzy it would start but not rev past 3k rpm. Since you have both map and CYL code, it may be enough for the ECU to not even run in Limp mode.

 

[Tiersin]

how would i fix the MAP sensor, and where on the manifold is it?

 

[downest]

There is not a knock sensor on the D series motors. The single wire plug you asked about is the VTEC solenoid (run to A04), the other is the VTEC pressure switch (D06).
On the Z6 manifold, the MAP is on top of the throttle body, but if you still have your A6 it's on the firewall.
As for wiring the O2 sensor, this is from my write up:

Last thing is the O2 sensor wiring. Now, you don't need to go to a 4-wire O2 sensor for OBD1, as long as you keep the sensor in the stock position on the manifold, on the front of the motor. I made the mistake of trying to use the 1-wire on my DC header, where it's located behind the motor. It's better to just get a 4-wire heated O2 sensor in the first place, and you won't be throwing a code 41.
The sensors all seem to have different colours. I used a Bosch universal 4-wire for a civic, and it came with a piece of paper that listed the colours and what their functions were. To avoid confusion I'll use letters.
So you will have 1 colour A wire, 1 colour B wire, and 2 colour C wires. A will be ground and B will be signal, while C is for the heating element. Put the ground to the thermostat ground, if your sensor is behind the motor it's convenient. Splice the signal (B) into the old single wire that was running to the original O2 sensor. The two Cs are non-polar, the heater doesn't need to be in a certain direction. Run one to pin A06 (should be one of your extra wires on the harness), and the other to an ECU power yellow/black wire, I used B01 (OBD1 side), you'll need to tap into it. I would suggest using some kind of quick release connectors for these, so you can take the exhaust out without removing the sensor. Don't solder it together and leave the sensor hanging there while you are going to be installing the motor or head, you could easily break it.

I once got a code for CYP when I had CYP M and CYP P reversed, but as I remember the car did start. This is when I had a bad dizzy and was having trouble running the car correctly though. Go back and check your dizzy wiring, the "large white" can be distinguished also by the way it's in the harness. If you peel back the wrap a little bit, you will see that the large white isn't wrapped up with the other wires in the sheilding.

 

[Tiersin]

ok, so i'm not sure whats wrong with my MAP sensor. I'll post it and hopefully someone can help.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e7/Tiersin/100_1635.jpg

I also found i was reading the trouble codes wrong. I am getting codes 9, 22, and 41. what are these? i know 9 is CYP

*UPDATE* I have found that i am 100% mentaly retarted. I had the CYP sensor wires reversed, and that is what caused the problem. After i switched them, it worked, but i did NOT reset the ecu. So i still got the code. I reset the ECU, and now my only problem is a 41. O2 heater. I've herd you can drive the car like this though.

 

[downest]

I told you it was backwards!
Now you just need to figure out the 4 wire.

 

[Tiersin]

OK, so it runs fine now. How can i tell VTEC is engaging? i test drove it, and it sure dosnt lag in higher RPMs, but i've herd you can "feel" VTEC.

OK, now onto tuning. I set my timing this morning. Just to make sure, with the 4 dots on the pully, when setting TDC, its the dot farthest away right? Theres a red one between 2 whites, and another white farther away. And when i'm using the timing light, you want the red dot centered right?

OK, last thing, when i drove the car, its REALLLLLY loud. Mostly out of the intake. What can i do to fix this?

 

[downest]

You actually want the middle of the 3 dots. Your timing is a bit off, that's why it's really loud, just straighten that up and see how it is. You won't feel VTEC engage as much on a SOHC, it's pretty smooth.