Traction bar vs stock radius rod

[hispanicpanic]

Figured this deserved its own thread. I like the ability to adjust caster with aftermarket traction bars, and a rod end design under axial load is much better than getting a spherical for the stock radius rod and having it under radial load. Anyone have any opinions on a radius vs traction bar setup? Is the front of the chassis stiff enough to redirect braking and cornering forces through it via the traction bar??

[hispanicpanic]

Just found a thread where someone's EF cracked around the radiator support from their traction bar setup. They had to have their chassis rewelded. I like the idea of the traction bar system due to the ability to adjust caster (moar caster!!!!). But i'd like to see if there are any other data points out there that can help guide my decision

To be fair, the guy with the cracked EF probably dragged his car. I have no plans on drag racing. Just road course/autox. So much less impact loads, BUT overall force shhould be pretty similar under braking, just in the opposite direction.

[budget_crx]

I wouldn't be able to compare both for you since I have only tracked my car with a traction bar setup. On the subject of the radiator support cracking, I reinforced my traction bar setup by welding on brackets that allowed me to mount it with the factory crossmember bolts as well. I believe some traction bars come built like this already, but the particular one I had only used the six bolts by the rad support. Now there is 10 mounting points on there, distributing the stress better and still saving tons of weight over the stock setup.

[hispanicpanic]

I wouldn't be able to compare both for you since I have only tracked my car with a traction bar setup. On the subject of the radiator support cracking, I reinforced my traction bar setup by welding on brackets that allowed me to mount it with the factory crossmember bolts as well. I believe some traction bars come built like this already, but the particular one I had only used the six bolts by the rad support. Now there is 10 mounting points on there, distributing the stress better and still saving tons of weight over the stock setup.

take a look at these two styles and let me know. Both mound differently both at the LCA and rad support.

I'm trying to picture your custom weld job in my head but can't. Can you ms paint a picture or something?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/for-88-91-HONDA ... 83&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/94-01-ACURA-INT ... CI&vxp=mtr

[budget_crx]

This pic I found online had a smilar mod done to it, you can see the extra brace they put on the side that allows it to use the factory crossmember bolt as well. I just went a bit further and welded on the bracket and made sure it went back far enough to reach both crossmember bolts.

[budget_crx]

Also, it looks like both of those that you posted mount the same way towards the front of the car, the second one just has it angled strange in the pictures.

[solorex]

Check your rules, often a traction bar is illegal for most RR/Autox classes. A traction bar for the CRX shouldn't have spherical bearings on either end. The innovative bar is much better in that aspect. That being said I had a ETD traction bar on my car with the extra braces shown above and it was still absolute crap. I hated it, and it loosened off time and time again with lots of popping/creaking noises as you went over bumps etc...

I am back to stock and it's much better and it's legal for the classes I run in. To solve the pulley clearance issues with a B swap, I used curved radius rods out of the 90-93 accord and had them machined to fit.

[EF RaceRR]

Stock radius rod setup with upgraded bushings in the cross member.

I have a B type-r. With the oem pulley. With a/c. I am lowered about 1.5 inch all around. No radius rod rubs EVER. and I daily this thing. Handling is amazing with the upgraded bushings.

[Mista Bone]

Kingpin Machine.....

[hispanicpanic]

quick revive,

I'm getting the traction bar because my stock cross member is jacked up. The kind i got removes the front motor mount, and from what i understand i could wear out my rear mount faster because of that. Does anyone have recommendations for rear mount upgrades? I'd like something soft enough to ensure some pleasant DD. This isn't a race motor.

[Myriad]

quick revive,

I'm getting the traction bar because my stock cross member is jacked up. The kind i got removes the front motor mount, and from what i understand i could wear out my rear mount faster because of that. Does anyone have recommendations for rear mount upgrades? I'd like something soft enough to ensure some pleasant DD. This isn't a race motor.

Get some soft(er) polyurethane mounts from HASport or Innovative. The mounts for B-swaps already forgo the front mount so it's nothing new. I don't know how much the oem rubber would last, but the Poly mounts are built for it.