efcivic wrote:
I don't think a a 2nd bolt that goes though 1 side of the .065 or thinner sheet metal does anything. Right now all the designs put the front bolts in shear because the bolt is the only thing holding the plate to the sheet metal, what happens when you take the bolts out or they get loose, does it just slide around on the plate? Just picture the aluminum piece above in steel and welded to the brace, even if you take the bolt out the brace will still work. As far as the mounting points for the plates in my opinion round tube weld 360 and inch or less away from the door bolts is stronger than a piece of 1/8" mystery metal welded at a 90 and a triangle gusset where ever it will clear. Also round tube can be gusseted too.
I'll take this slow,
yes, a plate with a 2nd bolt will make a HUGE difference, that's basic engineering (friction and clamp loads).
what happens when a bolt gets loose? REALLY? what happens when my door falls off from loose bolts, or my engine falls out of the bay? that's a silly way to look at things; it won't slide around, because you use round holes, not elongated holes.
bolts, attached with back plated nutserts; PROPERLY TORQUED done, next?
why would you ever take a bolt out of a brace then worry about it coming apart? ...wonder why my pulley came off, I took the bolt out.
I don't understand your rand about gusseting metal... 1/8" plate with mystery metal? I'm willing to bet it's steel, what grade? that's a good question, but irrelevant because, well steel is steel IN THIS CASE.
the mounting points for your tube testfit, are too damn close to the bolts, you wouldn't be able to install it, this photo you posted here :
efcivic wrote:
seems to have everything nearly perfect to your design, the structural are not too close to the mounting plates,
has the triangulation you are looking for...
you are using heavy plates on the door side, why are you so against a plate where it would actually make a huge difference?