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Double Din Modification: A walkthrough...

12K views 24 replies 12 participants last post by  audioroach 
#1 ·
hello
Like a lot of you,I wanted to take advantage of what's currently available in DD car radios,but alas the pricing for an oem bezel is just outrageous to say the least. I also took a look at some of the modifications that others have attempted and thought there has to be a better way to get the look I wanted. I think I did a decent job..what do you think?



...Well on to the fun :)b
 
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#2 ·
This is what we are starting with obviously......


Luckily its readily available ( for the moment).

Okay I needed to find some way to support the final project and I stumbled upon it. I used a metra kit-actually a Mazda Double Din kit ( 99-7505-though others may work as well). Why you ask...

1. I like how the kit allowed me to swap radios of most major manufactures with ease.
2. The ridges allow for a strong base for my fabrication.

Next you cut your oem dash to fit the kit. Now this is the most important step...please try to cut just enough for the kit to fit easily. If you cut to much it will make the later stages much harder...SO TAKE YOUR TIME
 
#3 ·
Next up is securing the kit. What will be used is CA glue and accelerator. Head to your local hobby store and get it. What you want is the THICK version...its almost like syrup. The reason for this is to fill the obvious gaps that will/may be present.



Warning: THIS STEP IS CRITICAL. Make sure you are happy with placement of dash kit before you apply glue and accelerant. Once the accelerant is applied it takes SECONDS to set. You only get one shot. As stated before take your time...it will make the later steps a lot easier.

 
#4 ·
Next up is sanding. Use 80 grit to scuff up and remove the excess glue. If you have a mini DA sander this step is a breeze...or you can do it by hand. Wear a face mask so you don't breath in the CA dust.
Once your satisfied...wipe bezel down with alcohol or cleaner so you can proceed onto the next step.
Filling in the gaps and such....its BONDO time.



Once dry time for sanding. I used 80-100 grit to get to this step. Was really pleased that I didn't have to do another layer of filler. As stated,if you took your time earlier in the process this is where it pays off - less work for you to get it close to what you want the final product to look like. A good tip is to sand when the filler is 'green' -firm enough to leave a mark but not fully hard-easier to manipulate.



Once your happy with your work you can proceed to the next step. Use a build up primer to fill in the smaller scratches. Once dry sand with 250 grit or higher ( grit depends on how much work you have to do to get it ready for paint). You want to work through it so that you have basically a smooth finish.



a closer view...almost done...

 
#5 ·
Now here a few shots with a demo deck I had laying around to show how it mounts...



Its basically an ISO mount....genius huh. As stated,this way allows for easy changing of the radio should one choose. Its very solid though I will make a metal bracket for rear support.











Lastly...you can paint it the color of your choice...



Basically thats it. Hopefully this helps someone along the way. Happy installing :)b

Any questions drop me a line.
 
#13 ·
haitian-REX said:
pics installed!! plz!!
Well here are a few test fittings of bezel #6 in my project car to give you some idea .
I have not settled on a 7" monitor yet. I have a few ideas-waiting to see what the App Radio3 looks like in
person before I made a final choice.



2 things for the eagle eyed:
1. Yes the mileage is correct-not bad for a 24 year old car (3rd owner)
2. The power mirrors switch is real and functional ( next write up maybe?)



Perfect OEM style fit and finish.
I Hope this has inspired others to think outside the box.
 
#16 ·
shorty_boy said:
Looks good roach.

I will be doing this in the near future, thanks for doing the hard work for me. Now you say unit number 6, you have already done 7 of these?
you're welcome :)b

I have only done a total of 6. The others are in my pals hands kinda like " hey I have this cool idea I want to try out" deal-basically they just covered my materials cost. Not looking to do this on a larger scale because of true costs to do it:

labor: 3hrs (modifying and finishing product) @ $80 hr=$240
materials $55 avg
total= $295

Its hovering in price of what the oem piece is going for :shock: And like anything in life you get what you pay for-my work ethic is a lil on the OCD side: if your paying me for something it has to exceed your expectations or rather "my view" of your expectations lol. Think of this as my gift to the crx community.
 
#18 ·
shorty_boy said:
Wow,

Well thanks for the effort. I am glad that you were able to give it a trial run to show us how much effort, time, and money would go into such a project.
Thanks.

I tried to make the write up as clear as possible while outlining the most obvious and critical steps.
I patterned it after tech documents I encounter in my job. I hope this helps you guys out a lot.

I tried to give a realistic values so there is no surprises. It can be done by a hobbyist with basic skills and tools.
Just follow the steps and take your time and it will be a fun and learning experience that can be adapted to other things.
 
#21 ·
y49si said:
Great write up! Roach why that particular adhesive? Will others work as well or is that what "works best" for you?
The normal CA glue we are used to is very thin and runny. Its great for parts that lock together and have zero gaps.
There is also a med and a thick version..since you will be filling in a few gaps the thicker/thickest stuff works best.
Its actually quite inexpensive- I paid $11 after tax for both glue and accelerator at my local hobby shop.
Now if I made a jig ( a template for repetitive tasks) and used a router table-I could have maybe used med ca.

As for the glue-there are several different brands-but if you contact a hobby shop that deals with planes,rc cars and
model building they will know what you are talking about.
 
#25 ·
Re: Double Din Modification: A walkthrough...

by shorty_boy » Mon Jul 01, 2013 9:34 pm

^ You have to find them as well. After I bought the materials to make one... a few showed up here and on ebay
Re: Double Din Modification: A walkthrough...

by OEMREXSI » Mon Jul 01, 2013 1:23 am

I think paying $200 for a double din is the way to go..
It's a lot easier than doing all that work but yours came out nice and clean nontheless..
Great write-up
Yeah I noticed that as well. But here are my thoughts:
We do alot to a car that was originally designed as economical transportation-from wire tuck to engine swaps.
Some of what we do makes no LOGICAL sense to anyone but another owner/fan.
Just some food for thought.

Honestly the costs depends on what you find consider a bargin. I'm an install tech by trade-so it kinda second nature for me-wanted to give you guys an insight oh how something like this is done-allowing you to take advantage of all the cool tech thats coming to the DD radio market. This was the idea brought on by a pal who
was frustrated by the fact there was nothing for single dins radio ( gps nav,etc)-within reasonable pricing.
So lets look at some pricing ( avg):

radio bezel - $30
bondo and glue $20
Paint and material $20
dash kit $20

Lets say $90 for the DIY ( assuming you have coutting tools saws files etc). The labor is just your time.
So you can do this for less than the cost of the oem-plus you gain valuable experince to do something else :)b .

vtecn8ive said:
Pics of it installed with black paint?
:shock:
Ummm I don't know how to respond to this request lol. The pic I poseted was still in primer-I felt the contranst allowed one to see that it blended into the natural fit of the area. Maybe when I get time I'll install a deck in it and that may answer your curiousity.

Thanks for all the intrerest in the project and hope it helps you-and plaese post up pics of your finished projects.
 
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