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But again the same issue is reached as with the ITBs. Power can easily be attainable with the stock GSR valves. If you would want an upgrade, just go with ITR valves.

Just to go with ITBs and oversized valves would already exceed the price of a decent turbo build. The only reason I would consider an NA GSR would be because I wouldn't be able to afford going FI. Even then, I would probably just keep it stock with the exception of a CAI and catback.
 
THATREDCRX said:
chillez wrote:
most opinions i have read frown upon larger valves in n/a cars especially with larger cams. Let me put it this way I have not seen a bad graph with stock sized valves. I'd be more concerned with cam design and porting myself.
You sure the frowning is from looking at the machining price? I dont know where you read but if you ended up with a cylinder head and someone already put oversized valves in you would probably be curious of the gain attainable if your plans were to change the cam design and to port it.
find me a back to back gain from std to oversized valves!
 
chillez wrote:
find me a back to back gain from std to oversized valves!
Ok, but dont be offended if I used a larger valve as an example to increase top end power. The cut I posted up the page is worth the gain against oversizing.

I think we need to consider that imgoingforit is going for his idea of the best b series na which is 220 and reliable.
My idea of a purpose built na is different. I dont mind a 1500 idle at all and I always have a d series laying around for when I want to cruise around piecefully.
 
that is what i'm getting at. the valve cut, port job, chamber shape, cam lift/ duration(TIMING AS WELL) are much more important than oversized valves imo. even a slightly larger valve can hurt your chances at big cams (if you get them to fit you can't run much cam timing differences anyways) you run greater chances of v2v problems :blah:.
 
Finally we found common ground! Ive had yet to see it happen here. I was beginning to believe this was almost like H-T. :shock:

Porting, valve cut, and cam lift/duration are the only factors you should mess with on a GSR head. The valve size is already near perfection giving you little play when oversizing due to clearance issues. Yes, a couple mm can make a difference but is it really worth the work. Nevermind the risk if the person you hired to do the job [potty mouth]s it up.

It would all depend on imgoingfotit's budget and what level of competition he will be going into. If hes just going to the track occasionally to have fun on HPDE, then that's overkill. On the other hand, if he wants to thrash on that Rex in time attack series like the SLB, go for the ITBs, oversized valves, Toda VTEC-Killers, and anything else you could think of to keep that NA competitive.
 
Meech said:
Finally we found common ground! Ive had yet to see it happen here. I was beginning to believe this was almost like H-T. :shock:

Porting, valve cut, and cam lift/duration are the only factors you should mess with on a GSR head. The valve size is already near perfection giving you little play when oversizing due to clearance issues. Yes, a couple mm can make a difference but is it really worth the work. Nevermind the risk if the person you hired to do the job [potty mouth]s it up.

It would all depend on imgoingfotit's budget and what level of competition he will be going into. If hes just going to the track occasionally to have fun on HPDE, then that's overkill. On the other hand, if he wants to thrash on that Rex in time attack series like the SLB, go for the ITBs, oversized valves, Toda VTEC-Killers, and anything else you could think of to keep that NA competitive.
there's always room for common ground with intelligence :lol:
 
lol, i love discussions,..in my B16 head i went with supertech flat valves dont want to say oversized but bigger,.l..dont remember the specs.....
 
imgoingforit said:
Are Toda spec C still the top dog cams? What about Endyn bumpstix?
I loved my Spec C's. I did not know what I was getting into at the time. What I did not know was that I was going to be building a motor based around a cam spec. In the end, it was one badass obd0 b16.
 
im sure no one can put up a strong debate towards that, but o.p. as much myself, wanted to go all motor for reason; in full confession to the community i wish i did do a turbo build, in reference to hp. numbers, and the amount of cash put into it....but from the get go i wanted to build a na motor, i did and i can say i love it :)b
 
LS-T is always going to be the poormans gateway to power. Its played out so theres plenty of information, its cheap so no big baller status is required, and its fast with builds ranging from 250-500whp. Who said you cant have cheap, fast, and reliable in one car?

There is just no point in going all out with a NA build unless you want to race in a certain catigory that restricts modifications, but you can always look for other events. Then again there is the personal preference, but most dont mind a little lag and a little more maintainance.
 
^Its a big difference and it doesnt have anything to do with money or ultimate power and price.

N/A or turbo choices have alot to do with what you plan on using the car for. If you end up on bullrun and you show up in a REX.......forget turbo. Just a fresh modded N/A setup will get the job done reliably. Say you enter an endurace race, you want to be N/A. DD to work every day............N/A. Nothing wrong with wanting to get the most out of a motor without forced induction. You wont find me bolting a mr. turbo on my ninja for the riding I do but if a am dedicated to the strip then I want to have turbo power.

N/A cars have a whole other feeling and vibe to them next to turbo/supercharged versions. So you have personal preference and a goal. Those are what makes the difference between the two.
 
Discussion starter · #160 ·
chillez said:
imgoingforit said:
Are Toda spec C still the top dog cams? What about Endyn bumpstix?
you're thinking too small. plus, is this for drag/ road race?
I enjoy driving my crx on a road course.
 
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