Hardline huh...where is this from? Youll need to replace it from another crx.

 

Those lines are listed as "May have been discontinued" on online dealer's parts diagrams.

If you completely remove the brake line, you can bring it with you to a parts store and match up the ID, length, and fittings to a pre-cut/pre-flared piece of similar length. Makes life easier by not having to flare brakes lines (flaring lines isn't difficult, it's just 90% of flaring kits suck pretty badly). Might also be easier to just get another good line from a donor car..

If you let the master cylinder run dry, you'll have a hard time bleeding it. If you fill the master up and jam the brake pedal down, it shouldn't leak.

 

Thanks for the help guys. So, it's been a rough week.

The master cylinder went dry overnight and I ended up taking the car to a two different mechanics because I had to get this fixed as soon as possible.
At the first mechanic, I went out and purchased two new 1ft steel brake lines that were pre-flared and threaded (1ft is roughly 2 inches longer than stock). We bent those in and installed them. During this time we also took out the rear trailing arms and redid the bushings. We bled the brakes three times (just the rears) and the brake was pretty much unusable. I left the car overnight at the shop and went to school.

The next day, my mechanic said it was all fixed, it wasn't. While the car was running, I had to pump the brakes 2-3 times to get the brakes solid and stop the car. This was no bueno.

I took the car to a different mechanic the next day. We replaced both rear cylinders and the master. We also bleed all the brakes a few times. The braking gradually got better. It went from 3 pumps to 1 pump to stop. Then today, we went through two more bottles of fluid and I can finally stop the car by just pressing the pedal once.

Now, the pedal still goes almost all the way to the floor and it manages to lock up the wheels at low speeds. Before this whole fiasco, I was able to lock up the wheels by depressing the pedal about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way.

Is it possible to get my brakes back to the way it was? What should I do at this point?

Sorry for the wall of text.

TL;DR
My brakes work now but I have to depress the pedal almost all the way down to the floor. This is about 2-3 inches lower than before. I've changed the master and rear cylinders and bleed the car over 3 days. What else can I do to fix this?

Thanks!

 

Not sure what trim level you have, if your brakes were "upgraded" to bigger, or what master cylinder was installed before.... but if shop #2 installed a smaller Hf master into something with larger brakes, that would cause a softer pedal with more travel. All the way to the floor... not sure it would cause that much travel, though. If your rear brakes aren't adjusted well, that will also cause some extra pedal travel.

 

Master probably wasn't bad before, just had air in it from going dry.

You need to bleed the brakes properly. On-car bleed of the master, then a proper brake bleed. If you changed the rear wheel cylinders, you will need to adjust the rear brakes (rear shoes set pedal height, do this before bleeding the system). If the mechanic you took it to didn't know this, you need to find a much better mechanic.

Have a helper push down the pedal and hold, crack a line open on the master (use high-quality line wrenches, Craftsmen or better), let fluid flow out, close, and repeat back and forth a few times. Keep a bunch of towels and water/cleaner around, brake fluid will eat through paint. Then re-bleed the entire system properly.

 

Wait...ya replaced the MC but only bleed the rears? Theres your problem. You need to bleed all 4 sides. Do it again all 4.