So my question is..
does this look normal for a b16 swap w hasport linkage? Or should it be like a regular factory linkage feels?

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=raF-bAU ... ata_player

sorry for the broken link in the first post. Here is an inside view of the shifter slop

 

The nuetral play is normal to have that much side to side, but thats atleast twice as much side to side as my linkage has when in gear, maybe even three times as much, and Im running stock front bushing!

It almost looks like your linkage is barely connected to the shift rod coming out of your transmission, but that doesnt make sence to be able to slide it onto the rodmore since you appear to have the bitch pin installed, but the bitch pin also looks like it may not be pushed through all the way, and doesnt appear to be a stock style spring pin.

The camera didnt focus well but it almost looks like the linkage "female" hole is much larger than the "male" shift rod coming out of the transmission (get your mind out of the gutter lol). Maybe take them apart and measure accurately if you can, it should be a pretty tight fit.

Does your linkage appear to have been welded anywhere? I almost think it could be a cut and weld custom job (which is common) and it just wasnt measured correctly

 

from what I remember the female end of the shift linkage went on quite well to the mail end. I mean I didn't have to cram it on but it was a slim fit. the bitch pin does look after market because there's no zig zagpattern on it it's just one straight open gap that closes when pressure is applied.
I'm pretty sure the shift linkage wasn't welded or else it was extremely good job and repainted afterwards. I will look at it a second time very closely to see if I can see any weld marks.
is it normal for the male end that's coming out of the transmission to move left to right slightly?

 

I just checked the 2 trans i have sitting in my garage and the male end has ZERO play, completely solid.

The bitch pin not being oem is fine aslong as its a tight ass fit, is yours just to long thats why its sticking out? be sure it is also coming through the top hole of the shift linkage, not just through one side of it like it "appears" to be

Sounds like the play on the shift rod is your issue though, but I dont know much about internals of trans youd need a more educated opinion on what would cause/fix that

Kudos on making videos, makes diagnosing ALOT easier :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

 

thank you so much Kevin for your additional help.would have never been able to test it on another transmission. now with your transmissions that you tested did you stick a long-handled screwdriver or something that you get a good amount of torque on and then try to move it left to right? because with the shift linkage being so long it gives you a really good amount of leverage to try to turn it left to right. I just want to make sure that the slight movement is definitely not normal. I will also go to a local transmission shop and show them the video to see if they think that's where the issue is, as well

 

by the way the bitch pin was a pain in the ass to get in and out and I did make sure that it was directly in the center of the hole after re-install, guess it's just longer then the oem one? The normal bitch pin is exact same size as outer shift linkage diameter?

 

ya I did put a 14" ratchet extension in the hole.

And yes the oem pin height matches the OD of the shift linkage exactly, flush on both sides

Are you having issues with shifting or is it just annoying you?

 

damn that's not good. Not having any major issues with shifting I mean I've missed going into a third two times at the 1/4 mile track. but that could be an issue with just the synchros in my transmission or even my user error lol. It's more of an annoyance because I know its not normal and I want to fix as many issues as I can. Unless it's gonna require a new tranny forget that!

 

ok,
you need a OEM pin NOW.

that bolt/pin you have is seriously the wrong size. it's a cheap $1.10 part. (plus $3.78)
I would ask why kind of idiot thinks that's ok; but I look into the mirror and realize I've done it. best choice is it fix it.

running like this can cause 2 things.
1. the internal shift rod can wear, causing it to get worse (the play) causing a REQUIRED teardown of the transmission (ask me how I know)
2. same thing can happen to the shift rod itself.

I'm fairly confident, if you continue to drive with it like that, at the track or otherwise, you will need new syncros much much sooner than you want.

 

I'm actually going to purchase a hasport linkage as well.

 

not to derail, I bought a hasport EFBLINK and sent it to RCautoworks for the RCautoworks no slop shift linkage mod

the hasport linkage was sent out the same day UPS delivered it. I know there is another shop that does them, but {recanted} PM if you care.

 

not to derail, I bought a hasport EFBLINK and sent it to RCautoworks for the RCautoworks no slop shift linkage mod

the hasport linkage was sent out the same day UPS delivered it. I know there is another shop that does them, but {recanted} PM if you care.

yeah I bought a u-joint from raceready.com for around $40 and was going to have a buddy of mine weld it on to my current shift linkage but decided to put the Jesus clips ( C shapped clip )in between the bushings on the end of linkage and that helped.

so I will be making a trip to the Honda dealer and picking up a new bitch pin and shifter bushings, see if that helps

 

when you have the buddy weld, make sure you keep the linkage cool (and the U-joint) my first one was destroyed because of that lack of care.

 

when you have the buddy weld, make sure you keep the linkage cool (and the U-joint) my first one was destroyed because of that lack of care.

okay thank you very much for the information

 

yeapper, mine was done by a professional as well. such is life.