Honda CRX Forum banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums

HOW TO: Skunk2 Intake Manifold Install

Jump to Latest
59K views 66 replies 13 participants last post by  Zackcal1899  
#1 ·
Install a Skunk2 Intake Manifold On Your D-Series
(this is very rough right now, its mainly just showing wherehoses etc go)

So during my MPFI Swap i acquired a skunk2 intake manifold.
Below are the labeled locations of where everything plugs in etc.

Tools required/stuff required
10,12,14 mm sockets, wrenchs, speed wrenchs.
Intake manifold gasket
Throttle body gasket for the throttle body used.
*MAP Sensor gasket( if you use a new map sensor. if your tb has one already then dont worry)
go to autozone and pick up some "caps" for valves. they have a variety pack for 6$ that was all i needed
Coolant ( you loose some on the removal or old intake manifold)
Skunk manifold instructions are handy...you can get them via there website

Remove your stock intake manifold by following the helms guide or honda workshop manual. reinstall according to that. this is more or less focusing on where lines, vacuum hoses etc go. the install itself for the manifold is straight forward.

When you have both manifolds off switch the eacv over to the skunk2 manifold and switch the iat sensor over as well.Switch over your throttle body, fuel rail, injectors etc. do not lose any of the spacers etc.
basically take everything from the stock manifold and put it onto the skunk2 one.
once done with that

Remove and throw out your charcoal canister. buhhhh byeee

then

The stock map sensor that is mounted to the firewall, unbolt it and throw that crap out. in my case i was able to hook my map sensor to the spot on my throttle body with my new map sensor. make it go buhhhhh byeeee

before puttin on the intake manifold, take a minute to make sure you understand what goes where. its a tight fit and some wiggeling was required to get it to fit in.
Image

Image

Image


A - cap this off and throw out the charcoal canister etc.
B - This can go to E
C - Cap this off.
D - 5
E - B
F - 6
G - waterpipe or coolant line
H - L
I - DO NOT USE (this is used to prevent cold starts etc..mainley used in canada )
J - DO NOT USE (this is used to prevent cold starts etc..mainley used in canada )
K -7
L - TO H
** if you have 2 outlets on your water pipe on the back of the motor...just plug one off..i swapped mine out for a single outlet tube off of a d15b2. MAKE SURE YOU GET NEW ORINGS FOR THE WATER TUBE!!!...you can plug it by just using a small piece of hose..slip it on and clamp it down..then put a bolt in the other end and clamp that down so they are snug and no fluid will come out of the extra outlet**

This is information that i received from Downest who took time out his day and called me with an answer. thanks dude i appreciate it a ton. if i misinterperted it please let me know, i will be hooking everything up tonight and turning the car over for the first time in 8 months. im excited.

Numbers
1,2,3,4 got deleted. 8 and 9 were deleted also. the spot where 9 plugs into ( i believe thats a coolant line) goes into the eacv.

The stock map sensor that is mounted to the firewall, unbolt it and throw that crap out. in my case i was able to hook my map sensor to the spot on my throttle body with my new map sensor.

Everything else gets capped off or deleted.

Once you have actually got the intake installed etc, you need to mount the throttle cable. i had a 92-96 civic throttle cable bracket which i just bent to work. see my pic.
itll look like this after
Image

Once the manifold is installed, start connecting the lines as the above diagram showed. Plug each plug into its respective spot. You may want to lengthen the stock map sensor wires, just becuase they are very tight and short. lengthen them about 1-2 feet and then you can run the wires low and up the back side.

follow reinstall procedure from honda.
available here
add some http:// to this ~> hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/CRX/ - full manual download.
or here to search by sections
add some http:// to this extension ~> media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/media/manuals/CRXManual/

Pics of the aftermarket install...please let me know if anything seems outa place.
Image

Image

the line that isnt connected to anythingin this picture went to the water tube that runs behind the block...it had a spot for a hose to plug into..

THIS IS ALL THE STUFF I Took out
Image


Video of it running..it was throwing a code 14 and 4 becuase of a wiring issue during the mpfi swap.
stock d15b2 with mpfi swap stock header and exhaust. no intake on it at this time.
 
#52 ·
:evil:
mike420crx said:
im pretty sure the iat sensor plugs should all be the same no matter what year if im not mistaken i used one off a z6 im. and i used my stock a6 injectors, you must have picked up some obd1 injectors from the accord but not sure i would just use some stock crx injectors unless you need to tune and [crud]
Click to expand...
I'm pretty sure they will work plus they fit perfectly in the mani but dx doesn't hav wiring for injectors :?
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#57 ·
take a pic of the wires your talking about. i dont know how your confused. the injector wiring is simple if you are already mpfi. if your dpfi (dual point) then you need to do the MPFI swap and add 2 injectors.

go research an MPFI Swap. google it and search around here.. there is tons of information out there.

http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-foru ... -swap.html
that is one of many out there.

once your have 4 injector pigtails on your engine wiring harness then yes you just clip them onto the new injectors(sohc zc injectors,z6 injectors, y8,hf etc etc work) and their respective locations and then place the retainer clips back on and your good.

also depending on the 4 new injectors you have ( high impedence or low impedence) you may need a resitor box that some of the how to's and write up's will mention.

go search how to check your impedence on the injectors. its very simple. done with a multi meter from home depot,radio shack etc. about 20$. very useful for trouble shooting electrical issues.
 
#59 ·
READ my above post..READDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD!!!!!!!!

the injector wiring is simple if you are already mpfi. if your dpfi (dual point) then you need to do the MPFI swap and add 2 injectors.

go research an MPFI Swap. google it and search around here.. there is tons of information out there.

http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-foru ... -swap.html
that is one of many out there.

once your have 4 injector pigtails on your engine wiring harness then yes you just clip them onto the new injectors(sohc zc injectors,z6 injectors, y8,hf etc etc work) and their respective locations and then place the retainer clips back on and your good.

also depending on the 4 new injectors you have ( high impedence or low impedence) you may need a resitor box that some of the how to's and write up's will mention.

go search how to check your impedence on the injectors. its very simple. done with a multi meter from home depot,radio shack etc. about 20$. very useful for trouble shooting electrical issues.
Click to expand...
Go research MPFI and then go from there..or start a thread..this isnt a MPFI how to..its a skunk2 intake manifold how to for those who have already done mpfi or are already mpfi...

make a thread in the modification garage...but you best search before you make a thread. i have just given you tons to go search with.
 
#61 ·
yes they will whistle... your air intake and the fact that its sucking in much more air is the whistle. if you go through the rpms at like 40% throttle and get to like 3 grand, 4grand youll hear it..almost sounds like a squeel/swooshin
 
#63 ·
nice dude..congrats...well have fun on the road trip...be safe..and going the speed limit versus 20 miles over...the only way it actually saves you more than like 10 minutes..if you you go 40 over and go that the entire route..drive smart and drive safe..bring some tools just in case..keep extra rad fluid, extra oil, and other tid bits with you just in cnase..i just drove from cali to boston
 
#65 ·
Yeah so I am going to bring this back from the dead...

So the IAT hole on the newer Skunk2 intake manifolds is threaded because newer models they made this manifold for have the IAT in a different location and the threads were in case the hole needed to be plugged. I spoke to Skunk2 on the phone about it. If your model (CRX) has the IAT in the location all of us are talking about, you need to drill it out to fit the IAT sensor. I took mine to the machine shop and they did it for me in about two seconds, but this can be an easy DIY. I spoke to many different people about shaving the IAT sensor, DO NOT DO IT. It may work and all, but Honda made these things the way they are for a certain reason.
 
M
#66 ·
importcustomx said:
i would try sanding the unit only if its a little..but if its a significant amount then just drill the manifold..thats the easier way.

i actually am still looking for a gasket...i used home made cut a gasket from autozone...

Mr Gasket on TH motorsports is the one im going to order..its 6.57..everyone else was 15$
Click to expand...
i just put in my skunk2 manifold but i cant get the lines hook up right can anybody help me out plz
 
#67 ·
Reviving this from the dead, has anyone done this recently( as in the last 5 years)? Just a straight swap on to a D16a6? If so does it still need to be drilled out? Should I ditch the charcoal canister, and how should I properly vent to return tube? And should I replace the map sensor or use my stock one? If I should replace it what should I get? And is wiring involved? I'm planning on getting a skunk2 alpha throttlebody as well to go along with the manifold I that changes anything.
 
Honda CRX Forum
posts
648K
members
29K
Since
2005
A forum community dedicated to Honda CRX owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
General CRX Discussions Modification Garage Stock Garage The Showroom 1st Generation CRX