Honda CRX Forum banner

Ohisofly's 91 si project - her name is Kimmy

161K views 822 replies 89 participants last post by  ohisofly  
#1 ·
After being a member for a while, I guess it's time to start my own build thread. I got this car for my 17th birthday, and have had it for 9 months or so. Shortly after getting this car, I made the mistake of getting some halo headlights with black corner lights. Now I'm over that ricer stage, and I have better plans for the car. I've also put a wink mirror in the crx, which is the best $20 I've ever spent. When I bought the car, here's what it had done.

- b18a1 engine swap
- Hasport mounts
- Carbon fiber hood
- Greddy exhaust
- AEM intake
- Unknown headers
- Altezza tail lights
- 17" Motegi rims
- Pioneer head unit
- Aftermarket door speakers
- Short throw shifter

Another thing to note is that the entire car is lined with dynamat extreme. The previous owner did this because this was a competition db drag car. He told me he held the db record for loudest compact car in the Northeast. Here's a video of it in action

The previous owner removed all of his competition audio stuff, in case anyone was wondering. I don't have many pics of the car when I first got it, but that video does a good enough job. If anyone has any suggestions, feel free to leave them below. I'm fresh out of high school and don't know much about cars. In the future, I plan to use this car for autocross occasionally and restoring it. Here's some pictures of how it currently stands.

Image


Image


Image


Image


Image


Currently I'm working on a hood that I just bought for the rex. It was $40 off of craigslist. It was tahiti green but it was spray painted black. They spray painted over a decal as well :crazy:

Image


Image


Image


Image


Image


Image


Image


Here's the hood pins that came with the hood

Image


This is the carbon fiber hood that's currently on the car. It's REALLY faded, as well as having some other damage, and in my opinion not worth trying to repair.

Image


The paint stripper! Worked amazing at first, but when it came down to the tahiti green it let me down, I used that entire container, as well as a smaller container of paint stripper and there was still paint on the hood.

Image


Me saying goodbye to the spray paint hack job

Image


Image


Image


Image


Image


Image


Image


My brother helping out

Image


My girlfriend hiding in the background haha

Image


Yummy

Image


My other bro helping, wow this is turning into a family thing..

Image


After the paint stripper was gone, I went and bought a wire brush head for the drill to finish the job

Image


Image


Image


Someone doesn't like pictures :lol:

Image


Paint stripper making me want to kill myself

Image


Image


Getting there slowly

Image


Image


I learned an important lesson about bondo; use only enough as necessary.

Image


One of my friends finishing up the bondo

Image


My camera broke, but currently I'm sanding the bondo and prepping the hood for paint. I'm debating if I should paint (spray paint) it white or black, because I don't have the funds to get the entire car painted. At first thought it was obvious that I should paint the hood white, but a freshly painted white hood vs. the 20 year old paint job on the crx has me questioning it. Oh yea, I'm a pic whore if you haven't noticed :mrgreen:
 
#777 ·
ohisofly said:
That's pretty interesting, thanks for the information.

Were you referring to the built in restrictor that I mentioned in my last post?
no, I somehow glazed over that.
IIRC a .5 or .65 restrictor is good. what you linked is just a AN flange. with a restricted hole.

you said your line is a NPT line? in that case, I'd get a NPT threaded restrictor.
 
#781 ·
Dr_Drache said:
ohisofly said:
That's pretty interesting, thanks for the information.

Were you referring to the built in restrictor that I mentioned in my last post?
no, I somehow glazed over that.
IIRC a .5 or .65 restrictor is good. what you linked is just a AN flange. with a restricted hole.

you said your line is a NPT line? in that case, I'd get a NPT threaded restrictor.
Yea I bought a fitting from lowes that fits, but according to the link on eBay it is AN threads so maybe the fitting I bought from lowes doesn't fit as good as I thought.

KevinEF7 said:
I would wait to start up the car until you get it restricted aswell, its not going to love 65+psi

Love that manifold, hope it holds well for you
Sounds good & thanks man 8)
 
#782 ·
ohisofly said:
Dr_Drache said:
ohisofly said:
That's pretty interesting, thanks for the information.

Were you referring to the built in restrictor that I mentioned in my last post?
no, I somehow glazed over that.
IIRC a .5 or .65 restrictor is good. what you linked is just a AN flange. with a restricted hole.

you said your line is a NPT line? in that case, I'd get a NPT threaded restrictor.
Yea I bought a fitting from lowes that fits, but according to the link on eBay it is AN threads so maybe the fitting I bought from lowes doesn't fit as good as I thought.

KevinEF7 said:
I would wait to start up the car until you get it restricted aswell, its not going to love 65+psi

Love that manifold, hope it holds well for you
Sounds good & thanks man 8)
:)b just spent like an hour reading over this build thread. I'm on my second crx and like 4th or 5th honda altogether. This makes me want to get off my butt and get started on the my crx project car too
 
#783 ·
displaynameherex said:
ohisofly said:
Dr_Drache said:
ohisofly said:
That's pretty interesting, thanks for the information.

Were you referring to the built in restrictor that I mentioned in my last post?
no, I somehow glazed over that.
IIRC a .5 or .65 restrictor is good. what you linked is just a AN flange. with a restricted hole.

you said your line is a NPT line? in that case, I'd get a NPT threaded restrictor.
Yea I bought a fitting from lowes that fits, but according to the link on eBay it is AN threads so maybe the fitting I bought from lowes doesn't fit as good as I thought.

KevinEF7 said:
I would wait to start up the car until you get it restricted aswell, its not going to love 65+psi

Love that manifold, hope it holds well for you
Sounds good & thanks man 8)
:)b just spent like an hour reading over this build thread. I'm on my second crx and like 4th or 5th honda altogether. This makes me want to get off my butt and get started on the my crx project car too
Glad to hear this thread is giving your some motivation :)b
 
#785 ·
IDK if it helps or not, BUT you really dont need that fpr. Good part is its not a junk aem one.

Anyways you can convert the oem fuel rail to a -6an. For my crx I need a -6an in and out so I converted it.

Image
 
#786 ·
crxvtec91 said:
IDK if it helps or not, BUT you really dont need that fpr. Good part is its not a junk aem one.

Anyways you can convert the oem fuel rail to a -6an. For my crx I need a -6an in and out so I converted it.

Image
That is pretty baller I must say 8) HiProfile recommended that I get a fpr to keep the fuel pressure more stable
 
#787 ·
New dx rack from eBay since my rack got donated to a civic wagon :lol: Also got some moog outer tie rods for this thing. My energy bushings also got donated to the wagon so I bought prothane bushings for the rack.

Image


Got the fpr hooked up

Image


Other than that I put the oil pan back on and put the rear upper control arms back in (this thing has been a parts car lately). The only "big" projects left are getting the tunerview 2 to work and finish retro fitting it in the cluster, along with buying a small battery and relocating it in the lock box.
 
#789 ·
That app does seem pretty cool, but I'm going with the tunerview 2 as long as I can get it to work with crome (I was having issues previously when I tried to get it to work).

If anyone wants to help me out with my no start problem that'd be much appreciated

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=150233
 
#790 ·
Now the car turns over but doesn't start, can anyone input some tuning wisdom? I kept adjusting the fuel pressure and the fuel values in the fuel multiplier table which made things a little better but I never got it to idle by itself.

Also, does anyone know where the iacv plug is on the engine harness? The only cel I have is for the iacv which I know is extremely important while trying to start this thing, and originally I didn't have it plugged in. I saw that the same part of the harness that goes on the back of the block for the alternator had a coolant sensor/plug that was the same, so I tried plugging that in but the code still didn't go away.
 
#792 ·
I originally thought that but I had a label on the tps plug that said tps so I don't think I did, I'll have to look at it more on the weekend
 
#793 ·
Last night I ordered some 16 gauge sheet metal to make a battery mount; I'm going to see if I can make the stock battery fit behind the bumper as is and hope for the best. If it doesn't fit then I'll either delete my washer tank or get a pc680, but I'd really prefer to not get a smaller battery as I don't think it'd be very reliable. We'll see I guess.

I also ordered a circuit breaker and some ring terminals, but I'm going to wait until the weekend to see how the battery fits. I think I'll be good running 4 gauge wire to the starter if the battery is behind the front bumper, but if I end up putting it in the trunk then I'll probably just end up going with 2 gauge and putting a cutoff on the back of the car
 
#795 ·
^ It ended up being the map sensor, I'm not sure why because I set it up for the 3 bar but once I changed it back to the stock map it started right up.

Got this welded :lol:

Image


As of now it's impossible for me to run a high beam bulb but I'm glad that a filter fits in there

Image


8)

Image


I ended up getting it running but it was extremely rich (like 10 afr), tried messing with the tune but just ended up in the car not starting so I'll mess with it again next weekend

Image
 
#796 ·
PC680 is the way to go. It will be fine as long as your car has no parasitic drains. I found this company that makes a bracket for it exactly like the PW:JDM one except its aluminum. They have one powdercoated black for a couple bucks more. I'd splurge for the odyssey charger and use the pigtail to trickle your battery when you're not planning on driving it for extended periods of time.
http://www.portablepower.com/PC680_Battery_Box_-_Unf

Here's mine:
Image
 
#797 ·
chunney said:
PC680 is the way to go. It will be fine as long as your car has no parasitic drains. I found this company that makes a bracket for it exactly like the PW:JDM one except its aluminum. They have one powdercoated black for a couple bucks more. I'd splurge for the odyssey charger and use the pigtail to trickle your battery when you're not planning on driving it for extended periods of time.
http://www.portablepower.com/PC680_Battery_Box_-_Unf

Here's mine:
Image
Thanks for the link, as of now I got the stock battery to fit where the washer reservoir was but if I end up buying a battery I'll probably pick the pc680.
 
#798 ·
chunney said:
PC680 is the way to go. It will be fine as long as your car has no parasitic drains. I found this company that makes a bracket for it exactly like the PW:JDM one except its aluminum. They have one powdercoated black for a couple bucks more. I'd splurge for the odyssey charger and use the pigtail to trickle your battery when you're not planning on driving it for extended periods of time.
http://www.portablepower.com/PC680_Battery_Box_-_Unf
He speaks the truth, my aftermarket car alarm will drain my pc680 in 2 weeks if left un started.
 
#799 ·
MR.SNAIL said:
chunney said:
PC680 is the way to go. It will be fine as long as your car has no parasitic drains. I found this company that makes a bracket for it exactly like the PW:JDM one except its aluminum. They have one powdercoated black for a couple bucks more. I'd splurge for the odyssey charger and use the pigtail to trickle your battery when you're not planning on driving it for extended periods of time.
http://www.portablepower.com/PC680_Battery_Box_-_Unf
He speaks the truth, my aftermarket car alarm will drain my pc680 in 2 weeks if left un started.
sounds like a good reason NOT to get a pc680.
 
#800 ·
Well long story short after my first test drive it started knocking

Image


I think this is the result of cranking it a billion times (without starting) while trying to mess with the tune. A month or so ago the engine was ripped out and here's how it sits today

Image


If everything goes as planned I'll be picking up a jdm b20 this weekend, and once I get it running I'll be giving the car to my little brother :| It's been fun but right now I don't have the time/money to mess with it. I still have my daily crx so at least I'm not leaving for good :lol: